Discover More Things Japanese

Zao Machi, Miyagi

June 10, 2013

One of the great things about Japan is the diversity in local culture. Japan’s long and isolated history due to geography and limited transportation technologies has led to one of the most unique and recognizable non-western cultures in the world. Those same historical forces also led to the many differences in language, beliefs, and culture throughout parts of Japan. While modernization has eliminated many of the gaps, there are still plenty of differences to experience and enjoy. This past wee...

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2013 Kume Island Firefly Festival

May 20, 2013

Most small communities throughout Japan have several festivals throughout the year to celebrate milestones along the way.  The largest festivals are usually derivatives of the traditional harvest festival, while smaller festivals usually are tied to specific events.  On Kume Island, the start of spring is marked by the arrival of fireflies. Since Kumejima has its own species of firefly, they have become an important symbol of the island.  The official character is even a Kumejima Firefly.  Aside...

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Samurai Awakening wins the Crystal Kite Award

May 1, 2013

When I moved to Japan, nearly every day was full of new experiences, wonderful people, and rich culture I didn’t want to keep to myself.  In addition to this blog, I began writing my first novel, initially titled True Samurai.  Like many projects, it evolved and grew with the input and help of friends, family and eventually Tuttle Publishing.  After nearly three years, I was finally able to hold Samurai Awakening in my hands last October. The book industry is a vast space full of differin...

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Ryukyu Hawk Owl

April 26, 2013

I don’t always bring my camera with me, but since today was an ensoku before the start of Golden Week, I brought my Canon to school.  When I got there, a crowd of students were staring out the window at a small bird sitting on the ground outside.  As young boys do, one of them prodded it with a broom handle.  A teacher told him off and I ran back to the car for my bag. The little Ryukyu Hawk Owl was sitting in the middle of a group of kids sleeping!  I was able to get right up close and ...

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2013 School Trip – Day 1

April 22, 2013

One significant modern rite-of-passage for young people in Japan are school trips.  Generally, there is a school trip for elementary, junior high, and high school levels.  For Junior High students, the school trip occurs in the second year and is three to four days in another prefecture.  For students in many schools in Okinawa, the school trip destination of choice is Kyushu. This year, I was able to go on the school  trip as the photographer for two of my junior highs.  I even live tweeted the...

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Okinawa OTEC Power Initialization Ceremony

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IMG_8812_1June 16th marked the beginning of power generation at Kume Island‘s Ocean Thermal Energy Conversion Power Plant with a ceremony and visiting dignitaries from around Japan and the world.  The newly completed OTEC power plant will be able to generate up to 50 kilowatt hours of electricity from a thermal convection powered turbine.  The turbine is propelled by thermal variations provided by warm surface water and cold deep sea water.

IMG_9149This station is the first of its kind in the world, creating energy in a clean manner.  The mineral rich deep sea waters used by the plant can be used in a variety of industries, making the entire process more efficient and beneficial.  The station is part of the Okinawa Prefectural Deep Sea Water Research Institute, and as the goal of the institute is to research the deep sea water, the power plant’s primary role will be as a research and educational tool. Its construction has been part of a continuing dialog on clean energy between Kume Island, Okinawa, and the National Energy Laboratory of Hawaii Authority and their OTEC project.

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The ceremony marked the official start of power generation after initial testing and the first power generated in March of this year.  Starting at ten in the morning, visitors were invited to the Research Institute Grounds to view the OTEC plant, sample some of the many products made with deep sea water, and enjoy entertainment by artists from local to abroad.  The open fair was followed by a half-hour ceremony with speeches and messages that ended with the pushing of the ‘start’ button. Special guests included:

  • Aiko Shimajiri – Parliamentary Secretary of Cabinet Office and Ministry of Reconstruction from the House of Councilors
  • Akikazu Shimoji – Okinawa Commerce and Labor Department Industrial Development Supervising Officer
  • Yoshihisa Kawakami – The Okinawan Vice-Governor
  • Alfred Mageleby – Consul General form the American Consulate General Naha
  • Nonaka Tomoyo – Director of the Gaia Initiative 
  • Mark McGuffie – Managing Director of Enterprise Honolulu
  • Gregory Barbour – Executive Director of NELHA

IMG_9707These guests were all involved in different aspects of promoting the OTEC project on Kume Island in communicating with the Hawaii OTEC program.  This historic achievement will have an important role in the local economy and development of Kume Island and will be a key test of this clean energy technology for institutions around the world.

IMG_9463The official events ended with a reception before the nearby visitor’s center where more performances took place and several speakers were invited to share their thoughts on the OTEC start and future of the program. Keynote speaker Nonaka Tomoyo surprised Kume Island Mayor Taira with a proposal for creating free WiFi on the island, which the mayor was just able to avoid commenting on.  Though it was a positive proposal, the Mayor is limited in the ways he can promote growth on the small island.  Luckily, organizations like Gaia Initiative and the sister-city partnership with Hawaii County are providing knowledge and political support to help Kume Island grow technologically and economically.

The celebration will continue Monday with talks by people involved with OTEC.  The continued dialog between interested parties promotes new ideas and the sharing of vital information.

For the future, project supporters hope that the power plant will justify the creation of a new deep water pipeline and expanded capacity generators which will allow for more industries and power.  Both Hawaii and Kume Island will continue to communicate and share information that will help the different projects create new opportunities for efficient use of the deep sea water and OTEC power.

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Zao Machi, Miyagi

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IMG_7293One of the great things about Japan is the diversity in local culture. Japan’s long and isolated history due to geography and limited transportation technologies has led to one of the most unique and recognizable non-western cultures in the world. Those same historical forces also led to the many differences in language, beliefs, and culture throughout parts of Japan. While modernization has eliminated many of the gaps, there are still plenty of differences to experience and enjoy.

This past week I had the opportunity to travel to Miyagi prefecture for the first time. Like many prefectures in the north of Honshu, Miyagi was hit by the 2011 tsunami with Sendai in particular being hard hit. The differences between small-island Okinawa and the plains and mountains of Miyagi were instantly obvious. From Sendai airport, the ground stretches away in all directions. Mostly farm land, the flat basin is nearly devoid of buildings so that I was astounded by the open spaces I hadn’t really experienced since being in the States.

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In Okinawa, space is at a premium; so many areas are highly urbanized. Where there are fields, they are usually in smaller pockets hidden among urban settings. The few areas of low-lying land are taken up by sugar cane which disrupts the horizon, unlike rice fields which stretch away as far as one can see. From the flat areas, however, the geography shifts again, climbing quickly into valleys and forested mountains. Everywhere was rustic and green, with the road snaking past hidden villages that reminded me a lot of Sedona, Arizona.

IMG_7274We stayed in Zao Town, Miyagi for two days for the Daido-ge Festival. I’ll cover the festival in-depth next week, but I was travelling with a group of Eisa performers who go each year to perform during the two-day festival. It was a great experience.

There are two Zao Towns in Tohoku. One is in Yamagata Prefecture. This town was small and is known for skiing and kokeshi. The former is a small wooden doll with thin, rounded body and larger head. IMG_7880The dolls are said to have originated from Zao Town’s local onsen and then spread to other parts of Japan. Since the weather is far cooler there in the mountains than far in the south, the onsen is a welcome way to warm up and relax. There is a popular foot bath outside the onsen where travelers can stop and bathe tired feet in a stream of hot water.

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IMG_7073Miyagi Prefecture is known for its beef tongue (gyu ton) dishes, but I found another local specialty right across the street from the onsen. Konyaku is a root based starch without much taste or a lot of nutrients, but it is a cheap way to fill the belly. It’s usually served in other dishes as a kind of filler. In Zao Town, specifically the To-gatta area, they served konyaku balls that had marinated in a sauce of dashi, roots and other ingredients to give it a golden color and hearty taste. These tabakon were served on skewers and were popular throughout the festival (they were 100 yen for a stick of 3).

IMG_7264There were other unique differences as well, especially among architecture, yet there were a lot of similarities as well. Everyone I met was warm and welcoming despite the fact I was only there to photograph and was not a performer. I was welcomed to all the post-festival events and the locals were as warm and curious as any I’ve met in Okinawa. I would have loved to stay longer, see more of the surrounding areas, and explore the famous sights, but it was also very interesting to spend two days on essentially one stretch of street. If you have the chance, take a drive through this area of orchards, you’ll be glad you did.

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Kumejima Kuruma Prawns

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It’s no secret that Japanese food is popular outside of Japan.  Not only is the food in-country highly rated, but there are Japanese restaurants all over the world.  A lot of people wonder, why is Japanese food so good?  It’s a complex answer.  Many will tell you it’s umami, others the care and thought put into food, and yet more that it’s the simplicity of the dishes that highlights natural flavors.

I’m not a food expert, but I think it’s a bit of all the above.

When I lived in the States, I never ate fish.  Maybe it was because I lived in the desert and all we got were frozen or river fish.  Whatever the reason, I’ve had an aversion to most fish since I was young.  Then, 5 years ago, I got dropped on a little island in the Pacific, their second industry being fishing.  Their food was fresh, delicious, and amazing.

IMG_6225A week ago I had a shrimp that was still moving a bit.  And IT WAS SO GOOD.  My family will tell you what large strides my palate has taken over the last five years.  So why was that prawn tail I had so much better than any other shrimp I’ve ever had?  How did a bit of still moving shrimp overcome 23 years of stubborn dislike?

Simplicity.  The shrimp was peeled, and served with a bit of soy sauce.   There were no other flavors to get in the way, no cross-contamination from sauce pans, pasta, or other fish.

Umami. The briny flavor combined with the bite of soy and the sweetness of the meat meant create that unique sixth taste that everyone raves about.  It’s a balance easily lost when the simplicity is left out.

Quality.  Kume Island is known for miso cookies, sugar cane, and white sand beaches, but it’s also home to many kuruma prawn farms.  Kuruma Prawns are similar to tiger shrimp, but a slightly different species.  They’re the kind of shrimp Jiro’s restaurant used in Jiro Dreams of Sushi.

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So what makes Kume Island’s shrimp so good?  Checkout the video below then head over to the Ultimate English Guide to Kume Island… Kumeguide.com to learn more about Kume Island Prawns.

**Please note: At least 3 shrimp were harmed in the filming of the video and writing of this post.  They were delicious.**

Kume Island’s Lost Village

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IMG_5632Last week, after filming an upcoming video post, I went exploring through Kume Island‘s lost village.  I didn’t stay for very long because of the danger of poisonous snakes during this time of the year, but I did have my camera.  Hidden under the trees of the island’s north shore is an abandoned village.  Today, only the walls and a few stone buildings remain of what was once a vibrant village.

IMG_5577The only visitors are the occasional explorers and locals who return to pray for the ancestors who used to live there.  This village is located near sea-level, and is surrounded by tall cliffs.  The village was difficult to get to before the modern roads that now lead to the farms, tropical pools, and Epoch Kuruma Shrimp farm that are located between the ocean and the cliffs.  Many years ago, the villagers abandoned the village and moved to the top of the cliffs so that they would be free from the dangers of tsunami as well as the difficulties of traversing the steep cliffs.

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One  modern building remains in the old village, a place for people to pray for ancestors long gone.  The rest of the area is overgrown with trees and plants, yet there is a unique sense of history as the paths echo into the depths of time.  As I walked, I couldn’t help but think of the people who used to live there, what kind of life they used to lead, and what the village looked like so long ago.

I intend to return for a more in-depth look and will do more research on the lost village.  In the meantime, I hope you enjoy this first look.

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2013 Kume Island Firefly Festival

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IMG_4730Most small communities throughout Japan have several festivals throughout the year to celebrate milestones along the way.  The largest festivals are usually derivatives of the traditional harvest festival, while smaller festivals usually are tied to specific events.  On Kume Island, the start of spring is marked by the arrival of fireflies.

Since Kumejima has its own species of firefly, they have become an important symbol of the island.  The official character is even a Kumejima Firefly.  Aside from Kume Island, fireflies are deeply rooted in Okinawan culture.   Fireflies thrive in wetlands, and throughout the islands, they would mark the start of spring.  If  you’ve ever ridden the Okinawa monorail, you might notice songs played to distract nervous riders whenever the monorail turns.  At the turn before Tsubogawa station, there is a song that echoes the pattern of lights the fireflies make as they fly.

 

Jin Jin Road

IMG_4621On Kume Island there is a road along the kanegusuku area full of shops, stores, and restaurants.  Every year the association of owners shuts down the street to vehicles and host the Kume Island Firefly festival.  The street is lined with paper lanterns, and restaurants set out tables and stalls to sell food.  Children draw with chalk along the road, festival games like darts, fishing, and other games are out and a stage is set up for entertainment.

IMG_4568This year, the event started around 4:00 on April 27.    There were a surprisingly large number of students, far more than I usually see around the other events on the island.  The local school band started off the entertainment with popular show tunes and other music.  Throughout the evening there were also live eisa performances, a signing group from Minamidaito called Borijinaru Musume, chugging competitions (soda for kids, beer for the adults), arm wrestling, and a small band to cap things off.

They also revealed the new official mascot for Kume Island, a cute Kume Island Firefly with a tsumugi patterned front.

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While this festival doesn’t have the long history and ritual appeal of older festivals, it is a fun way to relax and enjoy a carnival atmosphere while providing local businesses a much-needed boost from local and tourist spending.

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