Zao Machi, Miyagi

Posted on June 10, 2013 by Benjamin Martin

One of the great things about Japan is the diversity in local culture. Japan’s long and isolated history due to geography and limited transportation technologies has led to one of the most unique and recognizable non-western cultures in the world. Those same historical forces also led to the many differences in language, beliefs, and culture throughout parts of Japan. While modernization has eliminated many of the gaps, there are still plenty of differences to experience and enjoy.

This past week I had the opportunity to travel to Miyagi prefecture for the first time. Like many prefectures in the north of Honshu, Miyagi was hit by the 2011 tsunami with Sendai in particular being hard hit. The differences between small-island Okinawa and the plains and mountains of Miyagi were instantly obvious. From Sendai airport, the ground stretches away in all directions. Mostly farm land, the flat basin is nearly devoid of buildings so that I was astounded by the open spaces I hadn’t really experienced since being in the States.

In Okinawa, space is at a premium; so many areas are highly urbanized. Where there are fields, they are usually in smaller pockets hidden among urban settings. The few areas of low-lying land are taken up by sugar cane which disrupts the horizon, unlike rice fields which stretch away as far as one can see. From the flat areas, however, the geography shifts again, climbing quickly into valleys and forested mountains. Everywhere was rustic and green, with the road snaking past hidden villages that reminded me a lot of Sedona, Arizona.

We stayed in Zao Town, Miyagi for two days for the Daido-ge Festival. I’ll cover the festival in-depth next week, but I was travelling with a group of Eisa performers who go each year to perform during the two-day festival. It was a great experience.

There are two Zao Towns in Tohoku. One is in Yamagata Prefecture. This town was small and is known for skiing and kokeshi. The former is a small wooden doll with thin, rounded body and larger head. The dolls are said to have originated from Zao Town’s local onsen and then spread to other parts of Japan. Since the weather is far cooler there in the mountains than far in the south, the onsen is a welcome way to warm up and relax. There is a popular foot bath outside the onsen where travelers can stop and bathe tired feet in a stream of hot water.

Miyagi Prefecture is known for its beef tongue (gyu ton) dishes, but I found another local specialty right across the street from the onsen. Konyaku is a root based starch without much taste or a lot of nutrients, but it is a cheap way to fill the belly. It’s usually served in other dishes as a kind of filler. In Zao Town, specifically the To-gatta area, they served konyaku balls that had marinated in a sauce of dashi, roots and other ingredients to give it a golden color and hearty taste. These tabakon were served on skewers and were popular throughout the festival (they were 100 yen for a stick of 3).

There were other unique differences as well, especially among architecture, yet there were a lot of similarities as well. Everyone I met was warm and welcoming despite the fact I was only there to photograph and was not a performer. I was welcomed to all the post-festival events and the locals were as warm and curious as any I’ve met in Okinawa. I would have loved to stay longer, see more of the surrounding areas, and explore the famous sights, but it was also very interesting to spend two days on essentially one stretch of street. If you have the chance, take a drive through this area of orchards, you’ll be glad you did.

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Industrial Fairs (sangyo matsuri)

Posted on December 17, 2012 by Benjamin Martin

The industrial Fair, or sangyo matsuri in Japanese, is a fixture in the annual event calendar on my island. From the English translation you might think of cars, heavy manufacturing, and other well-known industry. In Japan, though, many products are made by very small local companies rather than in large factories. Even when big factories are necessary, there are often many small shops acting as suppliers. Taken to a further level, small rural communities without those major industries often have a vibrant industrial community supporting local needs. You might be surprised to learn about all the things going on around you in small local Japan.

Recently, our island had its yearly sangyo matsuri, and event designed to inform locals about the various products made on Kumejima and also to sell those products. One of the local kaizen (community) centers was taken over by scores of tables and activities for everyone to enjoy.

Agriculture

Since Kume Island is primarily agricultural, it is perhaps no wonder that there were plenty of produce tables outside the center with local farmers selling locally grown vegetables. Groups sold everything from daikon to benimo.

On the island, sugarcane is a primary export, so there were also booths highlighting different strains of cane and a booth that produced raw sugar from the sugarcane so that the whole process could be observed, and tasted! The workers used a machine to squeeze out cane juice then boiled it down (with certain chemicals to maintain the proper ph balance) to create the dark brown sugar cubes that are a popular snack item in Okinawa.

Kumejima is known for its prize-winning cattle. There were recently national awards and local presentations were made to acknowledge the hard work of local farmers and their livestock. There was also a small petting zoo set up for children to see local animals up close. There were various goats, small pigs, and even a couple of horses.

Oceanic

Japan is known for the many ways its people use the ocean. Kumejima is blessed with an abundance of natural oceanic beauty that helps support the local economy. Many products and services are built from the ocean and were also highlighted at the event. The most spectacular way this was done was through the creation of a shallow seawater pool. Children were given bags and then allowed to go out into the pool to try to catch fish and kuruma shrimp with their hands. The children had great fun trying to grasp the little fish, though some got over excited and ended up going for a swim.

Another spectacle thrown by the local fisherman was the filleting and auction of a whole tuna. The tuna was brought in and cut before a crowd of onlookers, then the sections of fish were auctioned off for sushi or steak. I ended up with a nice piece for 400yen (about 5 dollars) that I pan seared with garlic, salt, and pepper. It made a really delicious dinner!

There were also booths highlighting the various ways Kumejima uses Deep Sea Water. I bought shampoo made from the water at the Point Pur table. Nearby there were various bottled mineral waters that Kume Island companies process.

Food

Perhaps the most obvious way both agricultural and fishery proponents highlighted their industries were through appealing to the many hungry visitors. There were many tables selling delicious foods, including fish tempura, shrimp skewers, soups, curry, bread, miso and more. With so many local and delicious ingredients to work with, there were plenty of options for great food. Local bakeries, omiyage makers, and onetime restaurants all showcased the great local ingredients. I ended up with tempura, gyoza, taiyaki, benimo tempura, and more! It was all too much to eat on my own but there was so much great stuff to try.

Culture and Creations

About half of the booths at the center revolved around things that are made in Kumejima, some of them as part of a long tradition. Two areas were interesting takes on reclamation art, where old buoys were turned into characters or planters. One of these groups included a game for students and was run by a local home for the impaired.

About a third of the center was devoted to Kumejima’s tsumugi (pongee silk weaving). The many patterns available were shown off and several items were available for sale. Throughout the day visitors were asked to dress up in full silk kimono to show off the great beauty of the classic fabric, while a local also demonstrated the method of string preparation.

Of course, there was also a bit of heavy industry thrown in too. A local solar panel company erected a giant solar panel set to encourage it adoption.

Entertainment

Throughout the day there was plenty besides shopping, fishing, and eating to keep people entertained. The local high school band played several sets, and local nursery school teachers created balloon art. The local radio station 86.9 FM Kumejima did a special live broadcast throughout the event (their studio is housed in the center), and yours truly stopped by for a bit to chat about the event.

Three athletes from the Okinawan professional soccer team also stopped by and had a soccer booth for the athletically inclined. Students got to challenge a player to a kick off against a target.

Even after more than a year living on this island of more than 8,000 people, I was surprised at all the different things people make and do here. With all the research I do for my weekly Haisai English radio show and The Ultimate English Guide, I was still floored by the variety and utter deliciousness of everything there.

Cape Hedo

Posted on December 3, 2012 by Benjamin Martin

I’ve been living in Okinawa prefecture for nearly five years. In all that time, and mostly due to a few local friends, I’ve been able to visit a lot of places on the mainland (honto) even though I’ve spent all my time with the JET Programme on outer islands. Still, up until last month I had never been to the very northern areas of Okinawa. I rented a car and drove up north with a few friends to Okinawa-honto’s most northerly point, Cape Hedo, also known as Hedo Misaki.

The day we went up it was, as it often is, rather rainy. The north of Okinawa is a place of forest and mountains with scenic coastal roads heading north. We drove straight up route 58 and skipped the Motobu peninsula. There, at the far end was a small parking lot with an old abandoned building that looked to have been a tourist trap at some point in its future…. honestly first image was ‘this place would make a great horror movie.’ Aside from old creepy buildings the cape has a number of interesting things to see and a lot of photo opportunities. When its clear you can see out to the southern-most Kyushu governed islands not far away.

The spot was interesting but it took a good 2-3 hours (with stops for lunch, etc) of driving time to get there for about a 20 minute walk/view. The drive in itself was worth it, since I had never really grasped just how big Okinawa is. For those with more time than we had, there are a lot of other great things to do, such as the Dai Sekirinzan, a quasi-national park nearby (there are discount coupons at Cape Hedo). I also spotted a lot of hiking and sight-seeing opportunities along the road. Since we only had a day, we took off and headed south to the Motobu Peninsula to checkout the Churaumi Aquarium.

I have heard that it is a very popular place to visit on New Year’s Day to see the first sunrise of the new year.

Overall, I’d say that if you have the time or live in Okinawa it is well worth a drive up to see Cape Hedo, but if you’re visiting or in a hurry checkout some of Okinawa’s other great sights like Katsuren Casle, Shuri Castle, and cool local sights.

Churaumi Aquarium Okinawa

Posted on November 13, 2012 by Benjamin Martin

Churaumi Aquarium (美ら海 beautiful ocean aquarium) is one of the premiere tourist attractions in Okinawa prefecture. The large aquarium is located within the even larger and interesting Ocean Expo Park on the Motobu Peninsula. Boasting one of the worlds largest indoor tanks, the stars of the complex are three whale sharks housed with many other fish of varying sizes.

Though I’ve lived in Okinawa for over five years, I had my first opportunity to visit Churaumi only this past weekend. The aquarium is very easy to find since there are easy-to-read signs pointing the way on major streets from Naha. For a scenic route, take route 58 north and follow the signs. For a quicker trip try the expressway (it’s a toll road).

The surprising thing about the Ocean Expo park is the sheer size of it. We went in November which was after the peak season so we had little trouble with traffic or even finding a parking space. Other friends noted that they’ve had problems with that during the summer months. We met the first designated parking lot quite far from the actual aquarium, though there are many attractions along the way, and a tram-car you can hire for 200yen/day. If you’re going during non-peak seasons, just drive up to the closest parking lot!

The whole complex is cunningly designed for the efficient flow of attendees. From the entry there are wide walkways, pavilions, stairs, fountains, and play areas that allow people to move at their own pace without blocking others’ way. Once you make it past various information booths, restaurants, and flowering sea life you’ll find escalators that will take you down to the entrance of the aquarium itself.

The fees can change but entry is usually about 1800 yen for adults, though a year’s pass is 3600. If you plan on going more than once, it makes sense to get a passport. Through the gates you’re immediately immersed in the oceanic experience at a tank of touchable sea life. Throughout you’ll walk past multiple tanks of various sizes grouped by sea depth before finding yourself at the vaulting main tank. Here, crowd control truly comes together as there are seats, switchback ramps and a wide area on the floor to give everyone time to stop, watch, and take pictures.

There is also a large shark exhibit you can checkout before heading down to the main floor. In addition to many specimens and interactive learning guides, there is a large tank of various sharks including lemon and tiger sharks. Outside the shark lab the path leads down to the main tank where you can watch the whale sharks, rays, fish, and other animals swirl through the waters.

Once you’re ready to move on, there are a few other exhibits including life near the bottom of the sea. There is also a cafe with seating around the bottom of the main tank for those that have a bit of extra time.

Finally, the path ends at an extravagant gift shop with everything from individually packaged snacks (great for omiyage) to plushes and clothes. Unfortunately we were limited by time so we kept our visit to the aquarium, and finished within about 2 hours. There is easily plenty to fill a day or more, but you can customize your trip to your schedule. If you visit Okinawa, be sure to check out Churaumi!

Silver Pavilion Buildings – Kyoto

Posted on August 8, 2012 by Benjamin Martin

Last week, I shared some of the amazing sights surrounding the grounds of Kyoto’s famed Silver Pavilion. Of course, the historic building is the reason most people travel up the winding, shop laden street to the gates of the building. The Silver Pavilion started as the retreat of failed Shogun Yoshimasa in the midst of the Onin War (15th century)* and remains today as a cultural landmark.

The Pavilion is a two-story wooden structure with wood tiled roof. Unlike the gilt Golden Pavilion to the west, the Silver Pavilion’s namesake color is not caused by metal, but by nature. When you travel up into the surround forest grounds, the cypress wood roof shows off its spectacular design as the brown roof turns to bright silver in the sunlight.

In addition to being a retreat fashioned after the Golden Pavilion, it is a Zen Temple with a wide sand garden and a cylindrical sand sculpture after the form of Mt. Fuji. There are numerous paintings in the various surrounding halls as well, with the main pavilion Kannon-den and Togu-do both being National Treasures. The interior of the building is usually not open to the public, but the Silver Pavilion is a must see for any trip to Kyoto.

Visit http://www.ginkaku-ji.or.jp for more information.

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