Kume Island’s Lost Village

IMG_5632Last week, after filming an upcoming video post, I went exploring through Kume Island‘s lost village.  I didn’t stay for very long because of the danger of poisonous snakes during this time of the year, but I did have my camera.  Hidden under the trees of the island’s north shore is an abandoned village.  Today, only the walls and a few stone buildings remain of what was once a vibrant village.

IMG_5577The only visitors are the occasional explorers and locals who return to pray for the ancestors who used to live there.  This village is located near sea-level, and is surrounded by tall cliffs.  The village was difficult to get to before the modern roads that now lead to the farms, tropical pools, and Epoch Kuruma Shrimp farm that are located between the ocean and the cliffs.  Many years ago, the villagers abandoned the village and moved to the top of the cliffs so that they would be free from the dangers of tsunami as well as the difficulties of traversing the steep cliffs.

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One  modern building remains in the old village, a place for people to pray for ancestors long gone.  The rest of the area is overgrown with trees and plants, yet there is a unique sense of history as the paths echo into the depths of time.  As I walked, I couldn’t help but think of the people who used to live there, what kind of life they used to lead, and what the village looked like so long ago.

I intend to return for a more in-depth look and will do more research on the lost village.  In the meantime, I hope you enjoy this first look.

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2013 Kume Island Firefly Festival

IMG_4730Most small communities throughout Japan have several festivals throughout the year to celebrate milestones along the way.  The largest festivals are usually derivatives of the traditional harvest festival, while smaller festivals usually are tied to specific events.  On Kume Island, the start of spring is marked by the arrival of fireflies.

Since Kumejima has its own species of firefly, they have become an important symbol of the island.  The official character is even a Kumejima Firefly.  Aside from Kume Island, fireflies are deeply rooted in Okinawan culture.   Fireflies thrive in wetlands, and throughout the islands, they would mark the start of spring.  If  you’ve ever ridden the Okinawa monorail, you might notice songs played to distract nervous riders whenever the monorail turns.  At the turn before Tsubogawa station, there is a song that echoes the pattern of lights the fireflies make as they fly.

 

Jin Jin Road

IMG_4621On Kume Island there is a road along the kanegusuku area full of shops, stores, and restaurants.  Every year the association of owners shuts down the street to vehicles and host the Kume Island Firefly festival.  The street is lined with paper lanterns, and restaurants set out tables and stalls to sell food.  Children draw with chalk along the road, festival games like darts, fishing, and other games are out and a stage is set up for entertainment.

IMG_4568This year, the event started around 4:00 on April 27.    There were a surprisingly large number of students, far more than I usually see around the other events on the island.  The local school band started off the entertainment with popular show tunes and other music.  Throughout the evening there were also live eisa performances, a signing group from Minamidaito called Borijinaru Musume, chugging competitions (soda for kids, beer for the adults), arm wrestling, and a small band to cap things off.

They also revealed the new official mascot for Kume Island, a cute Kume Island Firefly with a tsumugi patterned front.

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While this festival doesn’t have the long history and ritual appeal of older festivals, it is a fun way to relax and enjoy a carnival atmosphere while providing local businesses a much-needed boost from local and tourist spending.

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Ryukyu Hawk Owl

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I don’t always bring my camera with me, but since today was an ensoku before the start of Golden Week, I brought my Canon to school.  When I got there, a crowd of students were staring out the window at a small bird sitting on the ground outside.  As young boys do, one of them prodded it with a broom handle.  A teacher told him off and I ran back to the car for my bag.

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The little Ryukyu Hawk Owl was sitting in the middle of a group of kids sleeping!  I was able to get right up close and grab a few shots before it flew off, but then not far, and I caught it again in a nearby tree.

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I’m not a bird expert, but thanks to The Internet Bird Collection I’m pretty sure I identified it correctly. The scientific name is Ninox [japonica] totogo.  These photos were taken on Kumejima.

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Hoko Garden – Himeji City

34. Guesthouse and StonesThe Koko-en or Koko Garden is located just west of Himeji Castle in Himeji City.  If you’re walking from the main train station, it is to the left of the castle grounds on the other side of the moat.  According to the visitor’s pamphlet, the garden was completed in 1992 and is situated where the samurai beholden to the local domain once lived.

The day I visited, the weather was overcast, but I found the expansive garden a great place to wander.  Throughout the garden grounds there are actually 9 distinct garden areas all built with Edo-era techniques. While tours are available, I wandered on my own.  The diverse gardens enable you to find your own path or follow set courses.  Before the Entrance to the grounds, I found many flowering trees, and cuttings of sakura and plum were displayed throughout.

32. Guesthouse and Bridge

I skipped past the kassui-ken restaurant and moved through the roofed corridor that gave me the first glimpse of the largest garden.  Named ‘The Garden of the Lord’s Residence,’ it had a huge pond with carp, waterfall and stone bridge.  The corridor passed into the Choonsai guest house in which were displayed miniaturized sakura trees.

42. Green tea and sweet snackPast a garden with square beds of various plants and flowers was the entrance to the tea ceremony garden and house.  The garden was meticulously maintained, and I stopped for green tea and a snack (an extra 500 yen).  Unfortunately, when I went they did not actually conduct a tea ceremony, but simply served the tea which was prepared in some other area.  I believe they will conduct it with a large enough group.

65. Last PathAfter leaving the tea house, I wandered down the walled path bisecting the garden grounds.  To the north is the main garden, while six other gardens lie to the south. Some were completely walled off from the others, while some were divided by rush stalks tied to poles for a less imposing divide.  Most of these gardens have water running through them.

Gardens to the south include

  1. Flatly landcaped garden
  2. The garden of summer trees
  3. The garden of pine trees
  4. The garden of flowers
  5. The garden with a hill and pond
  6. The garden of bamboo

Overall I found the gardens almost as rewarding as Himeji Castle.  If you enjoy Japanese gardens it is definitely worth the walk.  If you have young children it might not be as engrossing.  I went in early March and found many flowers and cool weather.  I’m sure the gardens will present new sights throughout the seasons.

The cost is 300en for adults and 150en for children with hours of 9-5 (9-6 in May through August).  There is an additional fee for the optional tea ceremony or restaurant.

Weekend Trip to Kansai- Kyoto

PeachSince moving to Japan, I’ve lived on small islands in Okinawa Prefecture.  Unlike those on the mainland, it can be hard to travel when you factor in the time and cost of having to take a boat or plane before you get to a major airport, and at least two planes to get to a major rail station.  Still, after a motivating visit from ZoomingJapan and a time sale on Peach Airlines (less than 7,000 yen round trip from Naha to Kansai), I decided to make a weekend trip up to the Kansai region to visit Kyoto and Himeji.

IMG_8018Although I’ve been to Kansai before, I chose the region because I love the history and culture of Kyoto, the tickets were cheap, and because Himeji is the sister city of Phoenix, where I was born.  My novel Samurai Awakening is also set outside of Himeji City for the same reason.  With the way flights worked out, I had to fly into Naha on Thursday night to catch an early morning flight from Naha to Kansai International Airport (KIX) via Peach.  I was a bit nervous about using the discount airline, but since I didn’t check a bag, things went smoothly enough.  I got a seat in the first row so I had plenty of leg room as well.   The flight seemed rather long for the short distance we traveled.

In Kansai, I jumped on the airport express to Shin-Osaka station, and then jumped on another train to Kyoto.  I got in town right around 1:30 with the plan to do some photography and wander around the city.  It promptly started raining.

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I bought an umbrella from a convenience store after running around with my camera tucked into my jacket.  I walked east past the art museum and sanjusangendo temple then turned north for my favorite place in Kyoto – Kiyomizu Dera.  If you check out that link, you’ll find pictures from my previous trip a good 3 years ago.  Though it started raining pretty well, and I was carrying my only bag, I walked the whole way.  I was surprised at all the tourists despite the rain.  Unfortunately, in addition to the rain, the temple was undergoing some reconstruction, still I managed to take a few decent pictures, and I enjoyed the feeling of timelessness that the surrounding forests and wood buildings seem to create, despite the crowds of umbrella toting tourists (me included of course).

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IMG_8086Outside the temple grounds are streets filled with stores and shops catering to the tourists.  At one was an older lady baking senbei (a kind of cracker) that were flavored with cinnamon and in a unique curved shape rather than flat and round.  I bough some while escaping the rain for my coworkers and was treated to tea and taste-tests of their other products as well.

After the temple, I continued my trek north, turning west to visit the Gion district.  This was an area I had missed on my last trip, having had to go run and try to find a JA bank in the middle of a big city (JA is the agricultural bank of Japan) while my friends shopped.  This time, the rain kept me from getting to see much.  It would definitely be a great place to stroll at leisure, but perhaps not with a 20kg bag.  At that point it really started pouring, so I turned south to check into my hostel near the Kyoto Station.  My pants were soaked by the time I made it back.

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IMG_1449After dropping a few things off, I went back out and jumped on the subway north to the old Kyoto Imperial Palace in the hopes to checkout another place I had missed on my last trip.  By then it was dark (and still raining).  SUPER CREEPY.  Seriously, that is how really good horror movies start.  Walk into a huge park with bad lighting and hedges cutting you off from the main street.  I left disappointed and headed back south to the Nishikikoji Food Market (yet a third place I had missed).  It was mostly closed.

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By the time I found the street normally filled with food shops and stalls they were all closed.  I wandered the area for a bit.  There were plenty of side streets with other types of stores open, but by then I was starving and looking for somewhere to eat.  There were okonomiyaki shops and a beef place, but in the end… I ate at Subway.  It was so good.

IMG_8139With the rain settling down a little I returned to the hostel for a drink with random travelers at the pup next to the hostel. It was, unfortunately not a perfect day, but well worth it.  Since I did most of my trip via foot the most expensive part of my Kyoto trip was the shinkansen from KIX to Kyoto, but I think that came to about 4,000 yen.

The next morning, I woke up early to continue my trip.  I jumped on a few Shinkansen trains to Himeji City in Hyogo Prefecture to visit Himeji Castle and Hoko Park (I’ll share more on the park soon).  That too was well worth the extra expense of the express trains as it made it about a two-hour trip to Himeji City.  After touring around I returned via Shinkansen to the airport area to stay at a local hotel since I had to catch my 7am flight back to Naha on Sunday.  That was the only bad thing I found about using Peach.  The morning flight meant I lost all of Saturday.  Still a great trip, and highly recommended.

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