Zao Machi, Miyagi

IMG_7293One of the great things about Japan is the diversity in local culture. Japan’s long and isolated history due to geography and limited transportation technologies has led to one of the most unique and recognizable non-western cultures in the world. Those same historical forces also led to the many differences in language, beliefs, and culture throughout parts of Japan. While modernization has eliminated many of the gaps, there are still plenty of differences to experience and enjoy.

This past week I had the opportunity to travel to Miyagi prefecture for the first time. Like many prefectures in the north of Honshu, Miyagi was hit by the 2011 tsunami with Sendai in particular being hard hit. The differences between small-island Okinawa and the plains and mountains of Miyagi were instantly obvious. From Sendai airport, the ground stretches away in all directions. Mostly farm land, the flat basin is nearly devoid of buildings so that I was astounded by the open spaces I hadn’t really experienced since being in the States.

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In Okinawa, space is at a premium; so many areas are highly urbanized. Where there are fields, they are usually in smaller pockets hidden among urban settings. The few areas of low-lying land are taken up by sugar cane which disrupts the horizon, unlike rice fields which stretch away as far as one can see. From the flat areas, however, the geography shifts again, climbing quickly into valleys and forested mountains. Everywhere was rustic and green, with the road snaking past hidden villages that reminded me a lot of Sedona, Arizona.

IMG_7274We stayed in Zao Town, Miyagi for two days for the Daido-ge Festival. I’ll cover the festival in-depth next week, but I was travelling with a group of Eisa performers who go each year to perform during the two-day festival. It was a great experience.

There are two Zao Towns in Tohoku. One is in Yamagata Prefecture. This town was small and is known for skiing and kokeshi. The former is a small wooden doll with thin, rounded body and larger head. IMG_7880The dolls are said to have originated from Zao Town’s local onsen and then spread to other parts of Japan. Since the weather is far cooler there in the mountains than far in the south, the onsen is a welcome way to warm up and relax. There is a popular foot bath outside the onsen where travelers can stop and bathe tired feet in a stream of hot water.

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IMG_7073Miyagi Prefecture is known for its beef tongue (gyu ton) dishes, but I found another local specialty right across the street from the onsen. Konyaku is a root based starch without much taste or a lot of nutrients, but it is a cheap way to fill the belly. It’s usually served in other dishes as a kind of filler. In Zao Town, specifically the To-gatta area, they served konyaku balls that had marinated in a sauce of dashi, roots and other ingredients to give it a golden color and hearty taste. These tabakon were served on skewers and were popular throughout the festival (they were 100 yen for a stick of 3).

IMG_7264There were other unique differences as well, especially among architecture, yet there were a lot of similarities as well. Everyone I met was warm and welcoming despite the fact I was only there to photograph and was not a performer. I was welcomed to all the post-festival events and the locals were as warm and curious as any I’ve met in Okinawa. I would have loved to stay longer, see more of the surrounding areas, and explore the famous sights, but it was also very interesting to spend two days on essentially one stretch of street. If you have the chance, take a drive through this area of orchards, you’ll be glad you did.

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Nakasato Elementary Exchange (Winter) Part 2

This is the second part of this post.  Checkout the first part too!  Don’t miss the video at the end.

Every winter fourteen fifth grade elementary students from Kume Island’s 6 elementary schools travel to Toakamachi.  In the summer, a group of Tokamachi students from 3 elementary schools return to visit Okinawa.  In 2013, I was invited along as one of Kumejima’s representatives (read cameraman).  I live-tweeted the event and you can catch a record of the trip here (I know, strange title but we left on Valentine’s Day).

IMG_5180The first and last days of the trip were mostly travel.  Though Japan’s system is convenient, it took us two flights, four trains, and a bus to travel between Kumejima and Tokamachi. If you’re starting out from Tokyo, you would have a much shorter trip, but that goes for just about anywhere inter-regional.

That first night everyone stayed at a local Japanese-style inn were guests were welcomed to their rooms with a local variation of sasa dango.  They were tea flavored mochi filled with azuki bean paste and wrapped in tea leaves.  Unlike other dango, they weren’t skewered or wrapped in bamboo leaves (sasa is a type of bamboo).

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IMG_5589We had dinner together with many dishes featuring local foods.  Many of the dishes included river fish, which the Kumejima students had rarely, if ever, eaten.  There were small dishes of everything from sushi to tempura.

The second day marked the real start of the exchange. We ate breakfast together, this time at a breakfast room rather than in the large tatami room from the previous night. Like dinner, the breakfast was a wide assortment of small dishes.

After breakfast, we walked over to a local school for the opening speeches by local officials and students of both regions.  Students formally exchanged presents.  Our students gave miso and sugar cane cookies, kokuto, and Okinawan doughnuts, while the Tokamachi students gave green tea cakes.  Later, the Kumejima students and teachers broke up into three groups to go to the three local schools.

Opening ceremonies at school

I went with two of our students to a school with just over 30 students.  Fifth year students from both schools presented their local culture and landmarks to a gathering of the entire school.  The Kumejima students worked hard to memorize speeches about themselves and their homes.  If for no other reason, it gave the students a good chance to practice public speaking and build confidence in talking to people outside their usual group dynamics.

After the presentations, and a song from the students, we were given a tour of the school, followed by lunch.  The school we were at was small enough and remote enough to have a lunchroom rather than the more common family style dining in their classrooms.  Our meal was a beef bowl with salad and a chocolate cake.

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IMG_6402After lunch, the students played organized games in the gym.  One was similar to “red light, green light” but with a lot more variations, such as “go to sleep,” “sit,” etc.  We were treated to another recorder performance and then it was time to go outside.  Each school had different activities for their visitors.  At the school we visited they ‘let’ us have a try at snow shoveling for a bit before a scavenger hunt for candy in a snow-covered field.  I routinely sank down to my knees or higher.

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When all the candy was found, we sledded down a steep hill behind the school.  At one of the larger schools, the students build snowmen and had a ‘dodgeball’ fight with snowballs. There were also relay races and plenty of other games for the tropical kids to enjoy.

School ended and the students departed with their host families.  Each student spent the rest of the evening with their counter part’s family.  The teachers and staff went back to the ryokan to plan for the next year and have a welcoming ceremony.  It was interesting to see the differences in culture between Okinawa and Niigata during the event.

IMG_6749In Okinawa, its common for people to do a “cheers” when they walk over to talk to you.  They say “kanpai” and clink glasses before drinking.  In Niigata, it is more common for the hosts to arrive with a bottle and pour more in your drink and encourage you to drink as they chat.  The local songs and dances were also quite different.  The night ended with a “bonsai” which I’ve never seen in Okinawa.

The third day we met our students and their host families at the nearby Nakasato ski resort.  We all spent the morning skiing (I snowboarded).  Our students were taught by their host parents and a group of ski instructors while the teachers were herded along by some of the local organizers.  It was windy and snowed through most of the morning, creating wonderful powder conditions.

We had lunch at the resort, it seems curry rice is common since we had the same thing while skiing on the Junior High school trip.  After lunch, the teachers and students once again split up.  Students went with their host families.  Some went shopping, others hit some of the many local onsen, while others visited the snow festival.  The teachers were treated to some amazing tickets at the Tokamachi Snow Festival.

Our last day started at the school where we met our students and had a farewell ceremony with more speeches.  The bus ride back to Eichigo-yuzawa station was a spectacular view of the wide open rice fields and towering mountains… all covered in a clean cover of new snow.  We followed the same course we had taken to get there and eventually landed safely on Kumejima later that evening.  Along the way I got my first views of Mt. Fuji and the Sky Tree in the distance.

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I felt I got a lot from the trip, so I know it will have a huge impact on the students who were lucky enough to go.  It is sure to give them great memories, more confidence, and a desire to seek out more information about the greater world.  A few days after the trip, the students presented to the rest of Kumejima’s fifth graders so that the experiences could be shared as widely as possible.

To show my gratitude, I made sure every student got a CD of all the pictures I took during the trip plus a video I cut from that taken from one of the organizers. A short version is below.  Thanks for reading!

Things to Come on MTJ

Hi all! As you might have noticed, I was out all last week with my students in Kyushu for their school trip.  I will have a lot more to post on that amazing experience, as well as plenty of pictures.  I ended up with over 4,000 plus video.  Most of the photos I won’t be able to share due to privacy concerns, but since I haven’t had a chance to finish up all the draft posts I have, I opted of a bit of an update with a few photos from the trip.

Day 1 – Fukuoka Prefecture

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Dazaifu Shrine in Fukuoka

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View from the Takeo Hotel in Saga Prefecture

Day 2 – Saga Prefecture

Snowboarding/Skiing at Tenzan in Saga

Day 3 – Nagasaki Prefecture

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Paper cranes lining the entry-way to the Nagasaki Bomb Museum

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Feed-the-Sky-Rats

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Seagull feeding on the ferry between Nagasaki and Kumamoto

Day 4 – Kumamoto Prefecture

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Greenland Amusement Park’s giant Ferris Wheel.

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I’ve influenced a new generation of photographers… There’s probably some kind of award for ruining an art medium right?

Coming up on MTJ

I’ve been so busy lately, but luckily that means a lot of content coming your way.  I just have to finish putting it all together!  For sure I’ll be bringing you new advanced recipes of some of my most popular dishes, along with new cultural items, an in-depth look at how miso is made, and more!  Stick with More Things Japanese, this year and help spread the word by sharing any articles you enjoy via your favorite social media.  Stay up-to-date on my latest posts by subscribing by email or rss!

2012 Kitadaito Festival Day 2

The 2012 Kitadaito Festival was a two-day event in September marking an important time of community inclusion and tradition. The second day of the Festival was on the 23rd and, as in years past, featured sumo competitions as a traditional Japanese offering to the kami and ancestors of the village. If you haven’t already, be sure to check out my post on day one. Below is a video showing excerpts from the day, with more information and photos farther down. Enjoy!

Sumo Competitions

The second day began in the morning on Sunday around 9:00. Villagers gathered again before the Daito-gu shrine. There, a Shinto priest led a ceremony blessing both the sumo ground and the people. New babies were also brought before the shrine by their parents so that the adults could ask for safe and prosperous lives for their children.

After the ceremonies were complete, the villagers settled in to watch Edo and Okinawan Sumo competitions. Although Kitadaito is in Okinawan Prefecture, it was originally settled by people from Hachijo Island, which means the traditions of the island are a unique mix of mainland Japan and Okinawa. At the Daitogusai festival, both types of sumo take place. Pre-school through junior high students take part in edo style sumo.

Edo Sumo is the kind famous throughout the world, and its practitioners generally wear mawashi, a long single piece of fabric that is folded and wrapped into a type of loin cloth. The children make do with belts so that there is something to grab. The point of Edo sumo is to toss your opponent out of the ring or onto the ground. If any body part other than feet touch the ground, you lose.

Edo sumo is highly ritualized since it originated as a Shinto offering. Local villagers still participate in sumo for the health and safety of their village, as well as for the opportunity to win great prizes. Students all compete in set matches within their age group, then compete in 3 or 5 round matches for a chance at a trophy and prizes including everything from laundry soap to new bikes, fish, and more. The winner has to defeat 5 challengers in a row to claim the prize.

Tazuki wins the 5 person jr high edo sumo competition

After the last junior high school competition is the adult competition since Kitadaito has no high school. Matches are chosen by random in a ladder tournament with the winner receiving a champions cup, kilograms of rice, money and other prizes.

Finally, the Okinawan sumo competition takes place, often with a few of the best junior high schoolers jumping in as well. Several places receive prizes. All together the sumo matches generally last into the dusk. Aside from locals, other sumo practitioners are often invited to compete. This year, 10 sumo-ka from Kumejima participated in both days activities.

Performances and Entertainment

When I lived on Kitadaito, just a few years ago, there were many performances and lots of entertainment during the stop at city all on the first day of the festival. In fact the experience even became a part of my novel Samurai Awakening. This year, however, the schedule was changed up a bit. The first day started later, and there was no stage, food stalls, or entertainment at the city hall. Instead, everyone was welcomed to the local kaizen center (community hall) at 7:00.

There were many performances, including local students performing taiko drumming, traditional Okinawan dancers, local dance offerings, live music, and dance. Food and drink were also available, and everyone was able to enjoy the fun without having to worry about bad weather or rain.

The sumo club from Kumejima also performed a short comedy routine as way of thank you for the hospitality they received during the events. Check out the pictures or the video for a better idea of the performances!