The Threat of Rural Depopulation in Japan

IMG_2885As the weather starts to warm throughout Japan, sakura blossoms mark the beginning of a new season, yet they are a temporary beauty that fades quickly. On Kumejima, three schools welcomed new classes of first-year students. Like the sakura that decorate the classrooms, this year marks a period of transition. For two of those schools, it is their last School Entrance Ceremony. After this year, both schools will close.

Just ten years ago, the population of Kumejima was nearly 10,000 people, falling over a thousand people to today’s current population of 8,508. Where once four schools were needed to educate the large population of eager students, soon there will be only two.
Why the decline in population? Although Japan mandates education up through Junior High, the vast majority of students choose to proceed to high school. The few jobs those without a high school degree can get are low paying and few in number. Students on the island must choose between attending the local High School and moving to the mainland. Since the school they go to may affect which colleges and jobs they get, the most academically inclined students tend to go to academic schools on the mainland. This drain is only the start of a cycle of depopulation that endangers the future of many rural areas.

For the many students who do stay on the island for high school, their time is still limited. Those that want to go to college must leave since there is no campus on the Island. Those that choose not to go to college, or for whatever reason cannot, must either leave the island to seek work, or find work locally. Since Kumejima is mostly sugar cane fields, there are few jobs aside from seasonal work. With the amount of land available limited by geography, one son of a farmer might eventually claim his parent’s land, and a single son of a fisherman may stand to inherit a boat, but any other siblings are forced to find work elsewhere. Yet with the aging population, it could be many years before a prospective inheritor ever receives enough land or ownership of a boat to support them.

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This pattern of rural depopulation is a cycle seen throughout Japan, and it is getting worse. When the schools shut down next year, at least fourteen jobs will be lost. The number is not high, but that means that the population of Kumejima could drop by another fourteen families. If each family is three people that means 43 people or about 5% of the current population. Each person that leaves is another that will not spend money on the island, meaning landlords don’t receive rent, shop keepers sell less produce, and fewer children go to school. With Japan’s rotating civil service program, it means people will likely not be out of work, but throughout the prefecture there will be fewer positions open to new teachers.

So too, does the island lose a bit of its history. The schools that are closing have been open for sixty-five years. They have their own traditions and cultures that will be lost when the schools merge. The local PTA’s are an important part of the local community that will suddenly change.

Still, there is hope. The sakura fade quickly, but are replaced by new growth. Realizing the need for new growth of their own, the people of Kumejima and Okinawa have invested in Deep Sea Water. For more than ten years the Prefectural Deep Sea Water Research Institute has found new ways to utilize the natural mineral rich waters north of Kumejima, creating new opportunities for industry to grow.

OTEC Power PlantThis year, the first Ocean Thermal Energy Conversion power plant of its kind in the world was completed and began producing clean energy utilizing the variation in sea temperatures. This breakthrough will not heal decades of declining population over night, but it does provide some hope for the future. Last October, Emperor Akihito and Empress Michiko visited the institute to learn about the proposed plant. Their visit alone brought nearly 600 people to the island. With new possibilities and a wider outreach to the international community, this island may have a bright future.

Emperor and Empress of Japan

Okinawan Black Sugar Candy – Kokuto

IMG_3030Okinawa has its own history and culture, which is reflected in the foods you’ll find here. Since Okinawa is so far to the south, you will also find that many of the fields are filled with satokibi, or sugarcane. It might not surprise you then that one of Okinawa’s local treats is a kind of Black Sugar candy made directly from the juice of sugar cane plants.  The name of the treat comes from the kanji symbols for black and the second half of sugar.

Making Black Sugar

The process of making the sugar candy is interesting in its subtle complexity. Essentially, the candy is a distillation of the sugarcane juice, but in practice, a lot more goes into it. I was invited to a local factory to observe the creation of some of this delicious sugar candy.

IMG_2837The locals create batches of kokuto twice a week during sugarcane season (January through April).  They begin at six in the morning with around 600 sugar cane stalks.  The harvested stalks are cut from a field and the leaves are removed.  The sugarcane juice is extracted by a large rolling press.  The stalks yield around 400 liters of juice that are then placed in large pots over a fire to boil.

Since the sugarcane juice is acidic, bases are used to bring the liquid up to a ph that is more readily consumable.  Afterwards, the solution is left to condense over the flames for around 5 hours.  As the liquid condenses, it is moved to one pot.  In the last hour, the liquid is stirred as it begins to coagulate into a cross between sugar and molasses.  The dark liquid bubbles and is stirred and checked for the right consistency.

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IMG_2960When the workers determine that the process is finished, they transfer the liquid to nabe (large pots) to cool.  The liquid is stirred vigorously to introduce air into the cooling sugar candy so that it will not be too hard.  Once the liquid is nearly cool it is transferred to pans to rest.  Just before they become completely hard, the cooling kokuto is scored so that it will be easier to create blocks later.

IMG_2987The most delicious kokuto is said to be the thin wafers of kokuto that cool on the sides of the nabe.  Since they are the most aerated and are layered from the stirring of the liquid  they are indeed delicious.

More on Kokuto

Most large scale operations will involve more steps, chemicals, and more uniform results. The process I describe here is the local method on a small island in Okinawa.  The Oyatsumura factory and shop started out making kokuto in the garden for family and friends and developed over ten years to the still small but popular operation it is today.  The hand made black sugar candy is delicious and special.  You can order by calling the number listed on the Ultimate English Guide page, or stop by Kumejima to try some yourself!

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Industrial Fairs (sangyo matsuri)

IMG_4966The industrial Fair, or sangyo matsuri in Japanese, is a fixture in the annual event calendar on my island.  From the English translation you might think of cars, heavy manufacturing, and other well-known industry.  In Japan, though, many products are made by very small local companies rather than in large factories.  Even when big factories are necessary, there are often many small shops acting as suppliers.  Taken to a further level, small rural communities without those major industries often have a vibrant industrial community supporting local needs.  You might be surprised to learn about all the things going on around you in small local Japan.

Recently, our island had its yearly sangyo matsuri, and event designed to inform locals about the various products made on Kumejima and also to sell those products. One of the local kaizen (community) centers was taken over by scores of tables and activities for everyone to enjoy.

Agriculture

IMG_4960Since Kume Island is primarily agricultural, it is perhaps no wonder that  there were plenty of produce tables outside the center with local farmers selling locally grown vegetables.  Groups sold everything from daikon to benimo.

On the island, sugarcane is a primary export, so there were also booths highlighting different strains of cane and a booth that produced raw sugar from the sugarcane so that the whole process could be observed, and tasted!  The workers used a machine to squeeze out cane juice then boiled it down (with certain chemicals to maintain the proper ph balance) to create the dark brown sugar cubes that are a popular snack item in Okinawa.

Kumejima is known for its prize-winning cattle. There were recently national awards and local presentations were made to acknowledge the hard work of local farmers and their livestock.  There was also a small petting zoo set up for children to see local animals up close.  There were various goats, small pigs, and even a couple of horses.

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Oceanic

IMG_4952Japan is known for the many ways its people use the ocean.  Kumejima is blessed with an abundance of natural oceanic beauty that helps support the local economy.  Many products and services are built from the ocean and were also highlighted at the event.  The most spectacular way this was done was through the creation of a shallow seawater pool.  Children were given bags and then allowed to go out into the pool to try to catch fish and kuruma shrimp with their hands.  The children had great fun trying to grasp the little fish, though some got over excited and ended up going for a swim.

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Another spectacle thrown by the local fisherman was the filleting and auction of a whole tuna.  The tuna was brought in and cut before a crowd of onlookers, then the sections of fish were auctioned off for sushi or steak.  I ended up with a nice piece for 400yen (about 5 dollars) that I pan seared with garlic, salt, and pepper.  It made a really delicious dinner!

There were also booths highlighting the various ways Kumejima uses Deep Sea Water.  I bought shampoo made from the water at the Point Pur table.  Nearby there were various bottled mineral waters that Kume Island companies process.

Food

IMG_4915Perhaps the most obvious way both agricultural and fishery proponents highlighted their industries were through appealing to the many hungry visitors.  There were many tables selling delicious foods, including fish tempura, shrimp skewers, soups, curry, bread, miso and more.  With so many local and delicious ingredients to work with, there were plenty of options for great food.  Local bakeries, omiyage makers, and onetime restaurants all showcased the great local ingredients.  I ended up with tempura, gyoza, taiyaki, benimo tempura, and more!  It was all too much to eat on my own but there was so much great stuff to try.

Culture and Creations

About half of the booths at the center revolved around things that are made in Kumejima, some of them as part of a long tradition.  Two areas were interesting takes on reclamation art, where old buoys were turned into characters or planters.  One of these groups included a game for students and was run by a local home for the impaired.

IMG_4980About a third of the center was devoted to Kumejima’s tsumugi (pongee silk weaving).  The many patterns available were shown off and several items were available for sale.  Throughout the day visitors were asked to dress up in full silk kimono to show off the great beauty of the classic fabric, while a local also demonstrated the method of string preparation.

Of course, there was also a bit of heavy industry thrown in too.  A local solar panel company erected a giant solar panel set to encourage it adoption.

Entertainment

IMG_5085Throughout the day there was plenty besides shopping, fishing, and eating to keep people entertained.  The local high school band played several sets, and local nursery school teachers created balloon art.  The local radio station 86.9 FM Kumejima did a special live broadcast throughout the event (their studio is housed in the center), and yours truly stopped by for a bit to chat about the event.

Three athletes from the Okinawan professional soccer team also stopped by and had a soccer booth for the athletically inclined.  Students got to challenge a player to a kick off against a target.

Even after more than a year living on this island of more than 8,000 people, I was surprised at all the different things people make and do here.  With all the research I do for my weekly Haisai English radio show and The Ultimate English Guide, I was still floored by the variety and utter deliciousness of everything there.