Ceremony for a New Japanese House

This past week I was invited to attend a ceremony commemorating the construction of a new house.  Houses are pretty important in Japan.  Traditionally, families tend to stay on the same land for generations.  With today’s technology, houses are also expected to last a long time.  The construction of a new house, then is an important occasion for the family, community, and even the construction crew responsible for its creation.  When the concrete settles, an event is held to make offerings to the kami to ask for the durability, safety, and security for the new home.  The events I observed took place in three parts.

Offerings to the Gods

Traditionally, only men are allowed to ascend to the top of the house to make offerings, and then usually only the three representatives from household, community, and the construction crew.  I was kindly invited up to take pictures and record the event.  The three men brought a large bento box (traditional lunch box) with foods normally served to the Japanese gods and ancestors (kami).  These are the same foods served at ohaka during New Years and obon.

Sticks of incense, a five yen coin, salt, and a bit of food were laid out by each of the three men, then sake was poured over them.  They drank just enough of the sake to ‘purify the mouth’ then prayed for the safety of the building.  Afterward they ate a bit of the food.

Offerings to the Community

Since a new house is so important, the family generally wants to give a large offering.  The food in the bento is a symbolic offering, so there are many left overs.  At some point over the years, a tradition grew up where local children would come and gather below a new house.  After the ceremony the food was packaged up and tossed down to the crowd, where the children would try to catch the food.  Today, in addition to the special offering food, they also prepare treats and snacks and include them in the offering to the community children.

After tossing all the food down, the men then gave a further offering of salt, sake, and prayer at each corner of the building.

More for the Community

Finally, with the ceremonies complete, the children, community members, the construction crew and more were invited to celebrate with the new homeowners.  The family provided food and drink for everyone to enjoy and celebrate together late into the evening.

Feeding so many people must have been expensive, but return in goodwill, closer community ties, and as a further offering to kami was well worth it.  At such large events a soup of some kind is a usual main course since it is the easiest way to feed a lot of people.  This time, they made yagijiru (goat soup).  Yagi is a common protein on small Okinawan islands since beef is so much more expensive.  While cooking the tough meat they added pressed sugar cane to the broth for a time  to help soften the meat.

In the end, thanks to the ceremony, the family should be able to look forward to many years of comfort in their new house, along with the good will and thanks of the community for the effort and expense they put into the offerings at the ceremony.

School Lunch JAN 26 – FEB 1

It’s Thursday, so that means I’ve enjoyed another week of great school lunches. This week I was at all junior highs so they didn’t over fill my plates. On my island, all the food for elementary and junior high schools are prepared at one central location, then trucked to each school. Every school gets a trolley with sets of containers for each grade. Homeroom teachers’ food is included with their students’, but the rest of us have a separate teachers’ service. They always seem to put in a few extra servings in case people show up, so (usually the male P.E. teachers, but sometimes others) a few people get a bit extra. It seems each group of teachers has a different idea of who needs more food =D.

Thursday

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Milk, Barley Rice, Miso soup with shitake mushrooms, fried egg with Mozuku (a kind of seaweed), stirfry sliced daikon and seaweed, and miso cookies (a present on one of the students’ birthdays… it’s a popular Kumejima treat)  You might notice that this one is arranged improperly.  The ‘polite’ method would be to have rice on the left and soup on the right, with the other dishes farther away.  I give it a pretty solid 5 on the Japan scale… where else are you going to see eggs like that?

Friday

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Milk, rice millet, fish tempura, cabbage chanpuru, daikon and seaweed soup, shikuasa (sour lime) jelly.  This one might just be a 4.5.  The shikuasa is a delicious lime variant that is all Okinawa and works great in drinks and desserts.  I’m not sure when flour came into use in Japan, but tempura is pretty Japanese.  Even this type of chanpuru has more of a Japanese influence than say, goya champuru.

Monday

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Milk, barley rice, mushroom soup, shrimp and vegetable boiled dumplings, and vegetable oyster stirfry. This one gets a 5… Shrimp dumplings… hmm what do you think?

Tuesday

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Milk, Vegetable soup, cream spaghetti with meat and veg, custard filled waffle…. Well, there goes that nice Japanese lunch streak.  This one has gaijin written all over it, not that it wasn’t Japanized and tasty.  I’m still confused by the waffle desert being paired with pasta.  The pasta had a nice cream and cheese sauce. The waffle was maple flavored and cold (but in a good way) from having been frozen.  The soup was consomme.

Ok… now you know just how non-Japanese that meal was… I actually knew everything in it without resorting to a dictionary.

Wednesday

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Milk, barley rice, stirfry vegetables, “lightly simmered” soup (さわにわん), and Karipori Fish (Karipori is the sound it makes when you eat it, so roughly ‘crunchy small fish’).  This one was a challenge to translate to English.  The fish dish is one I see on the menu every couple of months.  Its mini fishes, whole, with peanuts and a semi sweet glaze binding them together.  They’re crunchy, and you eat them bones, head and all.  I had to ask a teacher what the soup meant, and then we had to check several dictionaries.  It comes down to veggies in a nice light broth that was tasty… No recipe on this one for you. It gets a 5.

 

My favorite for this week was Friday’s lunch.  I’m a sucker for tempura and I’m also a big fan of Shikuwasa.  Which one do you think YOU would like LEAST?

Stoves and How we Power Them

This is a continuation of the exploration of Japanese Culture by examining the major appliances we use every day.

Stoves

If you’ve ever been in a Japanese kitchen, one of the most obvious differences you’ll find is the stove.  In just about every American house I’ve seen, the ranges are large with at least four burners.  Electric is probably dominate, but there are areas where gas is used instead.  Nowadays they are often more likely to be flat panel warmers rather than the old electric coils that used to predominate.

Japanese stoves are almost always gas.  They come in very specific sizes to match the small kitchen spaces available in the majority of apartment/building kitchens.  In the one’s I’ve seen, even the more expensive versions usually have only two burners.  Under the center of the burners there is usually a drawer style broiler.

Gas vs. Electric

In America cities are large, with even more wide open spaces between major cities.  The cost of laying and maintaining gas lines is more prohibitive despite the low costs of natural gas.  In the past, natural gas was also more expensive compared to other energy costs.  More than that, natural gas could be conceived of as more dangerous since early gas leaks and explosions were highly publicized.  Fixed lines were also limited to areas of low seismic activity.

For Japan, though natural gas is cheaper than electricity that relies on foreign imports of fuel, or expensive technologies such as nuclear reactors.  Although Japan is seismically active Japanese companies got around the need to build expensive and potentially dangerous infrastructure by equipping individual buildings with tanks that could be easily refilled where lines are not practical.  Since Japan is an island and many buildings are closer together, there is also less cost and danger when physical lines are possible.

So then, Japan’s urban planning helps dictate how people cook and eat. Since buildings are smaller and taller, kitchens are smaller too.  Stoves are gas since natural gas is cheaper than electricity and widely available in Japan.  Tied to the stove are several other appliances we will look at later.  Some Japanese appliances have developed because of the limited space on the burners, while others perhaps keep the demand for more space down. The distinction may seem trivial, but Japanese cooking and diet plays a major role in deciding what tools are found in the kitchen.  Since humans are tool users, by understanding how we get things done, we can also understand why.

More to come next week.

In and Out: More on Social Dynamics in Japan

Terms

(ie) – house ,home, family, residence, building, dwelling, residency, habitation

(soto) – out, outside, other place

*translations from http://www.translate.google.com

A Bit of History

Japan’s social dynamics, like many counties, revolves around the delineation of the individual, that smallest grouping  we  identify as self.  For most westerners, the idea of self is clear.  We are the individual, each person an independent unit.  Over long years, and in many places, we have been relatively free to wander and roam.  Humanity has always pushed out, we are designed to survive, to seek out and expand our numbers so that no one destruction would wipe out the whole.  Darwin would tell us that those of us with the greatest tendency towards independence would strike out to find new lands, ever-expanding humanity’s range.  Later we learned to live as groups, as families, as cities.  Though independent we are also drawn to each other by a myriad factors, yet, there is still urban sprawl.  Cities are ever expanding as people seek out a bit of their own land, their own, individual life.

What would happen to those early adventurers if something happened to make a group more important than even oneself?  We see it with parents.  They willingly sacrifice for their children, though this can be explained as a necessity to continue the species.  People in the military, firefighters, police officers, and others routinely risk themselves for others.  Sure, there are benefits, and most assume they are safe enough, given the rewards.  Some at least, are willing to make that sacrifice, be it for duty, pride, or religion.  These are learned traits, bestowed by the socialization process to ensure there are those few who will ensure the rest can live in peace.

In Japan, though, something happened hundreds of years ago that affected the social dynamics of the people as a whole.  Rice.  In the Jomon period and before, the Japanese people were nomads, hunting and gathering through the islands.  When agriculture was introduced, ever-larger groups were formed because of the amount of work required to eek a living from the soil.  Rice was even more labor intensive, requiring a restructuring of the land into paddies.  Villages grew up around the most fertile and easily used land.  The people jointly owned the woods and fields, worked together to feed the whole.  An island, only few areas were suitable to rice farming, and those prospered.  Some groups coveted the land of others, and eventually, the role of the Samurai was created.  Protectors and warriors, they grew ever in importance, yet they were separate from the villagers.  The farmers toiled in the mud and muck, and as war became ever more specialized, the warriors became a different breed, a different class.

Feudalism and war created new social pressures to formalize and solidify the process that had begun years before.  Families became multi-generational institutions locked by class into specific work.  Villages were semi-autonomous, yet had to pay tribute/tax in rice as a whole.  Thus if one farm or house suffered, the entire village suffered as a whole.

The Resulting Dynamics

The result from Japan’s unique history and culture is a complex system of “in” and “out” that still drives how many people in Japan interact with each other.  Often in Japan there is no clear cut, “I’m me, You’re you.”

ie – Who  is inside?  Who is part of yourself, your family, your identity?  In old Japan, it might have been your household, which could easily include four or more generations.  It might mean the village that you depended on for protection from fire, to cultivate new lands, to find husbands and wives for your children.  Very rarely, it might have even included the larger ‘state’ in which you lived, if only because you paid your rice to them, and hoped they protected you from being conscripted into a war.

In today’s world, the definition is tighter, generally relating only to yourself and immediate family, though there are many exceptions given the situation.  When talking about co-workers to someone outside (soto) your co-workers might suddenly be your ie.  Within a family, the dynamics are even more apparent.  In your household, you might be ie, while your siblings and parents would be soto, yet when an outsider is present, they are soto, and your family is ie.

Among friends and classmates?  If you’re part of a group, in Japan it often becomes your ie while dealing with outside individuals.  There is a sense of obligation, often built over years of gift-giving and shared experience.  For Japanese, it’s a subconscious thing, a change that happens naturally given the situation.  Even the language supports the separation, with many using the humble form when talking about the ie and the honorific when speaking to or about the soto.  The fluid change between in and out can be hard for the un-indoctrinated to follow, yet at its most simplistic, ie is whoever you feel is part of your “group” at any given time.

The effects of being “in” can be shocking to those not expecting it.  At Japanese parties, everyone pays the same amount, no matter how little or much you eat and drink.  Old women or even local shopkeepers might thrust food or vegetables upon you for no apparent reason.  Your neighbor might swipe a few carrots from your garden without asking.  The lines between individual and group blur because the basic preconceptions about what is an individual is different.

soto - With a somewhat more clear understanding of ie (it changes) then soto is far easier to define.  It is the foreign.  Everything and everyone else not included in your “in” group at any particular time.  Just as the warrior class, the samurai, became both outside to the villager, and inside versus the marauding armies of another town or country, your boss might be in or out depending on if you are talking to a coworker or client.

In today’s Japan, the social distinctions are not as clear or regimented as they were in the past; however, the past has a strong influence on the socialization of new generations.  Japan is still isolated in an ever-integrating world.  Its ability to keep its unique culture and identity, despite wars and the internet, is a testament to the ingrained idea of one’s identity being connected to, and part of, other groups.

This is a wide subject in the study of Japan.  History, language, culture:  All of it combines in this one subject.  I hope this gives you an interesting introduction into the world of Japan’s social workings.  Don’t be afraid, most of these things are subtle, and many Japanese have had enough exposure to western culture to ignore our insistence on a view of “us and them.”

For those on the outside in Japan, you will mostly find a distance that is hard to break.  While the “in” is more inclusive than western culture, it takes a lot of work and time to become an insider.  Most likely, you will get more formal language, and shorter responses.  If you are not part of any group in Japan it can quickly become a very lonely place.  You might not even realize why you feel lonely.  The lack of quick relationships means that its harder to make friends.  Once you do begin to be accepted, you acquire both the benefits and responsibilities of being “in.”

The Group Identity

Just as the whole village could be punished for one household failing to pay a rice tax, so too is there still a strong group identity.  The actions of any part of a group, large or small, have an impact on the whole.  This is another reason why any group (be it an individual, organization, or team), are more reluctant to accept new members easily.  Once part of the group you have the same potential to disgrace the group as any other part.  Many in Japan find it hard to quit teams once they start, because there is an underlying obligation, a mutual obligation among the parts of a group that binds it together in Japan.

There are also great benefits.  Any part of the group can share in the accomplishments of the other.  Good news is shared just as easily.  Because there is a bond among the parts (albeit of varying degrees depending on the closeness to an individual), the other members of a group will have the same feelings of obligation towards you, and will help you if they can.  Like any relationship, these relationships require work to maintain and grow.

In the past, the group identity gave Japan an edge in business, while creating stable work for thousands of “salarymen.”  Japan has changed over the last few decades, being influenced by the changing world economy, but still the underlying aspects of this unique social characteristic are present, even subtly in the most western seeming Japanese.  It is, I think, one of those hard-to-define characteristics that together are Japanese.

Thanks to Neave for the prompt!  Email me your questions or concerns!

Comfort Food

This is an article I wrote for the “Comfort” Issue of the YAK, the 3 times a year publication done by and for Okinawa Prefecture ALTs from the JET programme.

I have been in Japan for nearly two and a half years, and in that time I have gone home twice.  In total, I have been out of the country for all of maybe 20 days.  Since I have been here I have never had to take byokyu (well, up until this week, but it doesn’t really count).  I have been extremely healthy for the most part, only having to visit the hospital for minor sports related injuries.  At first, I was surprised by my seeming good luck, only sick twice in all the time I have been in Japan.  But wait, the plot thickens.  Both times I got sick were when I was at home.  Coincidence?  I think not.

The first time I got sick was when I went home for summer vacation a year and a half ago.  I came down with strep and spent a full two thirds of my vacation floored until I finally got to a Wallgreens and got a z-pack to knock out the infection.  This time I had to take byoku because I had a fever and had green… well you do not really need to know that much about my nose.  So the question is why do I get sick there and not in Japan?  I think the answer lies in some of those comforts we all miss, some of the differences between our home cultures and Japan that are so obvious that many of us yearn for them.

So what did I do this trip?  Nearly every meal I at was a meeting with an old family member or friend I had not seen in years.  The way I saw it, it was a good way to kill two birds with one dinner roll.  Japanese food is great, I make it all the time, but I miss American food too.  So as I got my fill of back home favorites, I also was able to pack in as many people as possible into my short schedule.  I was shocked that where I would have finished off an entire plate of food a few years ago, this time I was ordering smaller portions and still had left overs.  My time in Japan has taught me to eat far less than I used to and still be satisfied.  It was shocking to find that the old comfort, over indulgence, was not even really possible anymore.  I could no longer eat that much.

Aside from friends, there was lots of family.  I have a big family, four brothers and sisters with 11 kids among them.  In Arizona at least, we tend to shake hands, hug, and even kiss for greetings.  We spent long hours preparing for the feasts and parties around Christmas, and even longer hours enjoying the fruits of our labors.  It is no wonder that the proximity of all the people and foods, etc. lent itself to a sharing of more than Christmas spirit.

So why do I get sick there and not in Japan?  In Japan people are more distant physically sure, but I would argue they can be just as close when you get to know them emotionally.  The distance however is telling.  Bowing instead of other forms of greeting might just be one of the things that has led Japan to have one of the biggest populations of old people.  People live longer in Japan.  Maybe it is because they are not spreading around all their germs every time they say hello.  Maybe it is because they do not stuff their faces as much as many of us westerners do.  So sure, I got my sourdough bread, and I still wish they had it here.  Nevertheless, I find it a comfort to live in a place where the people live longer.  Maybe we could all learn a few new comforts during our time, however long, in Japan.