Nakasato Elementary Exchange (Winter) Part 2

This is the second part of this post.  Checkout the first part too!  Don’t miss the video at the end.

Every winter fourteen fifth grade elementary students from Kume Island’s 6 elementary schools travel to Toakamachi.  In the summer, a group of Tokamachi students from 3 elementary schools return to visit Okinawa.  In 2013, I was invited along as one of Kumejima’s representatives (read cameraman).  I live-tweeted the event and you can catch a record of the trip here (I know, strange title but we left on Valentine’s Day).

IMG_5180The first and last days of the trip were mostly travel.  Though Japan’s system is convenient, it took us two flights, four trains, and a bus to travel between Kumejima and Tokamachi. If you’re starting out from Tokyo, you would have a much shorter trip, but that goes for just about anywhere inter-regional.

That first night everyone stayed at a local Japanese-style inn were guests were welcomed to their rooms with a local variation of sasa dango.  They were tea flavored mochi filled with azuki bean paste and wrapped in tea leaves.  Unlike other dango, they weren’t skewered or wrapped in bamboo leaves (sasa is a type of bamboo).

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IMG_5589We had dinner together with many dishes featuring local foods.  Many of the dishes included river fish, which the Kumejima students had rarely, if ever, eaten.  There were small dishes of everything from sushi to tempura.

The second day marked the real start of the exchange. We ate breakfast together, this time at a breakfast room rather than in the large tatami room from the previous night. Like dinner, the breakfast was a wide assortment of small dishes.

After breakfast, we walked over to a local school for the opening speeches by local officials and students of both regions.  Students formally exchanged presents.  Our students gave miso and sugar cane cookies, kokuto, and Okinawan doughnuts, while the Tokamachi students gave green tea cakes.  Later, the Kumejima students and teachers broke up into three groups to go to the three local schools.

Opening ceremonies at school

I went with two of our students to a school with just over 30 students.  Fifth year students from both schools presented their local culture and landmarks to a gathering of the entire school.  The Kumejima students worked hard to memorize speeches about themselves and their homes.  If for no other reason, it gave the students a good chance to practice public speaking and build confidence in talking to people outside their usual group dynamics.

After the presentations, and a song from the students, we were given a tour of the school, followed by lunch.  The school we were at was small enough and remote enough to have a lunchroom rather than the more common family style dining in their classrooms.  Our meal was a beef bowl with salad and a chocolate cake.

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IMG_6402After lunch, the students played organized games in the gym.  One was similar to “red light, green light” but with a lot more variations, such as “go to sleep,” “sit,” etc.  We were treated to another recorder performance and then it was time to go outside.  Each school had different activities for their visitors.  At the school we visited they ‘let’ us have a try at snow shoveling for a bit before a scavenger hunt for candy in a snow-covered field.  I routinely sank down to my knees or higher.

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When all the candy was found, we sledded down a steep hill behind the school.  At one of the larger schools, the students build snowmen and had a ‘dodgeball’ fight with snowballs. There were also relay races and plenty of other games for the tropical kids to enjoy.

School ended and the students departed with their host families.  Each student spent the rest of the evening with their counter part’s family.  The teachers and staff went back to the ryokan to plan for the next year and have a welcoming ceremony.  It was interesting to see the differences in culture between Okinawa and Niigata during the event.

IMG_6749In Okinawa, its common for people to do a “cheers” when they walk over to talk to you.  They say “kanpai” and clink glasses before drinking.  In Niigata, it is more common for the hosts to arrive with a bottle and pour more in your drink and encourage you to drink as they chat.  The local songs and dances were also quite different.  The night ended with a “bonsai” which I’ve never seen in Okinawa.

The third day we met our students and their host families at the nearby Nakasato ski resort.  We all spent the morning skiing (I snowboarded).  Our students were taught by their host parents and a group of ski instructors while the teachers were herded along by some of the local organizers.  It was windy and snowed through most of the morning, creating wonderful powder conditions.

We had lunch at the resort, it seems curry rice is common since we had the same thing while skiing on the Junior High school trip.  After lunch, the teachers and students once again split up.  Students went with their host families.  Some went shopping, others hit some of the many local onsen, while others visited the snow festival.  The teachers were treated to some amazing tickets at the Tokamachi Snow Festival.

Our last day started at the school where we met our students and had a farewell ceremony with more speeches.  The bus ride back to Eichigo-yuzawa station was a spectacular view of the wide open rice fields and towering mountains… all covered in a clean cover of new snow.  We followed the same course we had taken to get there and eventually landed safely on Kumejima later that evening.  Along the way I got my first views of Mt. Fuji and the Sky Tree in the distance.

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I felt I got a lot from the trip, so I know it will have a huge impact on the students who were lucky enough to go.  It is sure to give them great memories, more confidence, and a desire to seek out more information about the greater world.  A few days after the trip, the students presented to the rest of Kumejima’s fifth graders so that the experiences could be shared as widely as possible.

To show my gratitude, I made sure every student got a CD of all the pictures I took during the trip plus a video I cut from that taken from one of the organizers. A short version is below.  Thanks for reading!

Okinawan Black Sugar Candy – Kokuto

IMG_3030Okinawa has its own history and culture, which is reflected in the foods you’ll find here. Since Okinawa is so far to the south, you will also find that many of the fields are filled with satokibi, or sugarcane. It might not surprise you then that one of Okinawa’s local treats is a kind of Black Sugar candy made directly from the juice of sugar cane plants.  The name of the treat comes from the kanji symbols for black and the second half of sugar.

Making Black Sugar

The process of making the sugar candy is interesting in its subtle complexity. Essentially, the candy is a distillation of the sugarcane juice, but in practice, a lot more goes into it. I was invited to a local factory to observe the creation of some of this delicious sugar candy.

IMG_2837The locals create batches of kokuto twice a week during sugarcane season (January through April).  They begin at six in the morning with around 600 sugar cane stalks.  The harvested stalks are cut from a field and the leaves are removed.  The sugarcane juice is extracted by a large rolling press.  The stalks yield around 400 liters of juice that are then placed in large pots over a fire to boil.

Since the sugarcane juice is acidic, bases are used to bring the liquid up to a ph that is more readily consumable.  Afterwards, the solution is left to condense over the flames for around 5 hours.  As the liquid condenses, it is moved to one pot.  In the last hour, the liquid is stirred as it begins to coagulate into a cross between sugar and molasses.  The dark liquid bubbles and is stirred and checked for the right consistency.

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IMG_2960When the workers determine that the process is finished, they transfer the liquid to nabe (large pots) to cool.  The liquid is stirred vigorously to introduce air into the cooling sugar candy so that it will not be too hard.  Once the liquid is nearly cool it is transferred to pans to rest.  Just before they become completely hard, the cooling kokuto is scored so that it will be easier to create blocks later.

IMG_2987The most delicious kokuto is said to be the thin wafers of kokuto that cool on the sides of the nabe.  Since they are the most aerated and are layered from the stirring of the liquid  they are indeed delicious.

More on Kokuto

Most large scale operations will involve more steps, chemicals, and more uniform results. The process I describe here is the local method on a small island in Okinawa.  The Oyatsumura factory and shop started out making kokuto in the garden for family and friends and developed over ten years to the still small but popular operation it is today.  The hand made black sugar candy is delicious and special.  You can order by calling the number listed on the Ultimate English Guide page, or stop by Kumejima to try some yourself!

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2013 Japanese School Trip (Live Tweeting)

Monday is a day off in Japan in celebration of Coming-of-Age-Day which we just celebrated on our island yesterday.  I’ll be posting about that soon, but this week I have the opportunity to travel from Okinawa to Kyushu for the Junior High School Trip.  School trips are a huge part of school life and are memories that will stay with students forever.  This year I’ll be live tweeting throughout the four-day trip.  Check back here for new tweets or follow on twitter where I’ll be using the hashtag #JapaneseSchoolTrip.  Join the conversation below or just follow along!


This is actually my third time traveling with my junior high students. I’ve done a couple posts on past trips, you can find them all in my Kyushu Category.

 

A First Birthday in Kumejima

Happy Birthday!  A baby’s first year is an important milestone, and it is perhaps no wonder that in a culture full of tradition, ceremony, and concerns about omens and luck that is marked with a special occasion.  I have never had any children, so I’m no expert when it comes to children’s festivals and culture, however, a friend’s child recently turned one and he shared this bit of culture with me.

Tankaue Ceremony

On Kumejima, the anniversary of a baby’s first birthday is marked by the tankaue ceremony.  It is a hogen word, and I have no idea if it is used in other parts of Japan, so feel free to chime in if you’ve heard of it else where.  The child is placed at one end of a room, and several items are placed on a table.  The child is then free to go and choose an item.

The child’s choice is meant to reflect their future.  If he chooses money, he will pursue money through his life.  If he takes rice, he will be strong.  If he takes a calligraphy brush, he will be artistic, a notebook studious, an abacus numbers oriented, a pencil well written.

Of course, a child might be swayed by things other than his mystic future.  In the case of my friend’s child, he is very into drumming.  Everyday he goes around hitting his small eisa drum.  It is perhaps no wonder, then that he was drawn to the two stick objects on the table and started using them like drumsticks, be it on an abacus, or rice.

Overall, the ceremony is an interesting look at how small islanders attempted to look into the future.  With such calamities as typhoon, earthquakes, and tsunami, it is easy to see why they might be interested in getting an idea of what might be in the future.

One other interesting note is that the ceremony can only be done when the ocean tide is coming in.  Thus the baby has to choose before 4:30 (or whenever it is going out) or that future will be taken out on the tide.

Special thanks to my friend who allowed me to use his video for this post!  Cute kid right?

Cross Cultures – Holidays in Japan and America

All this month on my radio show Haisai English we’ve been playing Christmas music and talking about the differences and similarities between the American and Japanese holidays.  The overall theme we’ve found is that in many ways, Christmas and New Years are flipped between the two countries.

Christmas in Japan

In Japan, like many holidays, Christmas is promoted by stores as a way to sell products.  Just as the Japanese version of Valentines’ Day was essentially created by chocolatiers, PR firms promote the ideals that will best sell their products.  No one does this better than, of all places, KFC.  KFC’s campaigns are so effective that many Japanese assume everyone eats chicken on Christmas.  They dress up their Col. Sanders statues from November and have special holiday sets.  They even teamed up with All Nippon Airways to serve KFC on some flights.

When I talked to various guests about their views of Christmas in Japan, many talked about how its a time for couples to give presents and go on dates.  While there are decorations, and each year they grow more popular, they are still vastly limited (compared to the all out decorations in America) and usually just at stores or restaurants.  There is also little connection between religion and Christmas here.   Often, Christmas parties are tied in with bonenkai, a popular part of the Japanese office and work culture.

Sound familiar?  Maybe not for Christmas, but how about New Years?  In America, New Years is often a time for friends and dates rather than family.  People ring in the new year with noise and fun, just as Christmases in Japan tend to be more for friends than family affairs.

New Years

DSCN1917New Years in Japan and Okinawa are far more solemn events than American New Years.  It is a time for families to join together, eat traditional foods, and visit shrines (the religious element). Instead of Christmas Turkey or ham, families in Japan eat special boxed meals prepared in advance called osechi.  Instead of cookies, they often make mochi.  Just as presents are given for Christmas in the West, Japanese children often receive gifts (of money) on New Year’s day from their relatives.

While the traditions are certainly separate between different cultures (they’re different even  between families in the same cities), there are definite similarities that help lead to a better understanding of both holidays.