This past week we had our annual Marathon Relay on Kume Island. The Ekiden is an important community building event and a fun way to help promote fitness and heath. This year I stuck a gopro camera on one of the safety bikes so that I could share the experience with you, and give a little tour of my island. Enjoy!
On November 20, 2012 The Emperor of Japan Akihito and Empress Michiko visited Kumejima as part of a four-day visit to Okinawa. Preparations were long in the making, but it was still extraordinary to see the spectacle of a visit lasting less than 5 hours. Luckily, I was asked to help photograph on behalf of Kumejima Town and was able to stand with television and newspaper camera people in designated media areas.
The Emperor and his wife arrived around 10:30 JST on a plane from Okinawa-honto. There they greeted a group of students and dignitaries and then drove to the Deep Sea Water Research Institute to tour its grounds. One of the major reasons for the visit is the proposed OTEC power plant. Along the way Kumejima Townspeople greeted the Emperor by waving Japanese flags (a rarity in Okinawa), shouting “Thank you for coming” and “banzai!” After the tour, the motorcade arrived at the Town Hall just before 13:00 to rest and talk with Mayor Taira. There they discussed Kumejima’s many natural resources such as Kuruma-ebi, Umi-budo, and Deep Sea Water while eating lunch. They talked so much they didn’t have time to finish!
Afterward, the Imperial retinue returned to the Airport and waved goodbye to another group of students, the elderly, and other well wishers. One interesting point was that their airplane, while a regular JAL Express, sported two Japanese flags out of the cockpit until just before it took off at 15:53. Overall 5300 locals came out to see the Emperor (as counted by police) out of a population of 8,554 (Oct ’12). Aside from Locals, 600 other people also came to view and see them. For my part I saw Fuji Television, RBC, and NHK along with several photographers.
The security surrounding the Emperor was impressive. There was at least one, and likely several coast guard patrol boats around Kumejima during his visit along with two police helicopters. In addition to his regular guard, there were plain clothes police at every stop and along the route, regular police, bomb sniffing dogs, and scores of cadets to help with traffic control and crowds during the Emperor’s procession.
The Emperor and Empress were warm and smiling, and took the time to wave and greet those who had come to see them. With such security and planning it is no wonder things went so smoothly (though I think the Emperor stopped a couple times more than planned to wave since the welcome was so great. Security operatives had to scuttle back out of the way at least twice). Luckily the weather was just about perfect.
Also attending the tour was the Governor of Okinawa, who made some remarks for the news cameras after the Emperor had left.
Churaumi Aquarium (美ら海 beautiful ocean aquarium) is one of the premiere tourist attractions in Okinawa prefecture. The large aquarium is located within the even larger and interesting Ocean Expo Park on the Motobu Peninsula. Boasting one of the worlds largest indoor tanks, the stars of the complex are three whale sharks housed with many other fish of varying sizes.
Though I’ve lived in Okinawa for over five years, I had my first opportunity to visit Churaumi only this past weekend. The aquarium is very easy to find since there are easy-to-read signs pointing the way on major streets from Naha. For a scenic route, take route 58 north and follow the signs. For a quicker trip try the expressway (it’s a toll road).
The surprising thing about the Ocean Expo park is the sheer size of it. We went in November which was after the peak season so we had little trouble with traffic or even finding a parking space. Other friends noted that they’ve had problems with that during the summer months. We met the first designated parking lot quite far from the actual aquarium, though there are many attractions along the way, and a tram-car you can hire for 200yen/day. If you’re going during non-peak seasons, just drive up to the closest parking lot!
The whole complex is cunningly designed for the efficient flow of attendees. From the entry there are wide walkways, pavilions, stairs, fountains, and play areas that allow people to move at their own pace without blocking others’ way. Once you make it past various information booths, restaurants, and flowering sea life you’ll find escalators that will take you down to the entrance of the aquarium itself.
The fees can change but entry is usually about 1800 yen for adults, though a year’s pass is 3600. If you plan on going more than once, it makes sense to get a passport. Through the gates you’re immediately immersed in the oceanic experience at a tank of touchable sea life. Throughout you’ll walk past multiple tanks of various sizes grouped by sea depth before finding yourself at the vaulting main tank. Here, crowd control truly comes together as there are seats, switchback ramps and a wide area on the floor to give everyone time to stop, watch, and take pictures.
There is also a large shark exhibit you can checkout before heading down to the main floor. In addition to many specimens and interactive learning guides, there is a large tank of various sharks including lemon and tiger sharks. Outside the shark lab the path leads down to the main tank where you can watch the whale sharks, rays, fish, and other animals swirl through the waters.
Once you’re ready to move on, there are a few other exhibits including life near the bottom of the sea. There is also a cafe with seating around the bottom of the main tank for those that have a bit of extra time.
Finally, the path ends at an extravagant gift shop with everything from individually packaged snacks (great for omiyage) to plushes and clothes. Unfortunately we were limited by time so we kept our visit to the aquarium, and finished within about 2 hours. There is easily plenty to fill a day or more, but you can customize your trip to your schedule. If you visit Okinawa, be sure to check out Churaumi!
Below are photos from the 2012 Kumejima Marathon which took place on October 28, 2012. I was asked to take pictures by the local town government, so these aren’t edited for content. Instead, there are pictures for just about everyone in the full race. Since there are so many, I’ve shrunken them down. If you would like a full size copy of a picture you can email me with a request. Please include the photo file number. Only individuals competing may request a free digital copy. If you are in a photo and do not want it posted here, please let me know and I will remove it. All Photos are ©2012 Benjamin Martin and are digitally watermarked.
下のほうはたくさん久米島マラソンの写真があります。今年、僕はミーフガーの近くに撮りました。自分の写真ほしい方はマールをどうぞ。大きいサイズがあります。写真のファールを教えて下さい。自分の写真は暇です。
Every year on September 22 and 23 Kitadaito Village celebrates its largest Festival. These dates mark the beginning of autumn. Kitadaito also known as north Borodino island is a place of 12sq kilometers 320 kilometers east of the Okinawan mainland. It is unique in that it was settled by residents of Hachijo Island (near Tokyo) but is part of Okinawa Prefecture. Over the past 100 years the island has become a unique chanpuru (mix) of both cultures.
After graduating from the University of Arizona, I spent three years living and teaching on Kitadaito, and returned this year after more than a year on Kumejima. It was great to re-experience old memories and make new ones as the festival has changed since my time there. Watch the accompanying video for a chance to experience a few bits from this truly unique day.
The main part of the Kitadaito Festival is the parade of the portable shines. The Kitadaito people believe that kami reside in the Daito-gu shrine, and visit on important days such as New Years. For the festival, they invite the kami to reside in the portable shrines for a short time, and then carry them throughout the village so that the kami can bestow good fortune and a healthy prosperous year. The portable shrines are heavy and require many people to carry, thus making the act an offering of time, energy, and strength. The villagers push the shrines into the air in tempo to whistles and calls, making the shrines seem as if they are running on angry rapids. The extra effort and difficulty of the task makes the offering all the more potent at each rest stop.
In thanks for bringing the shrines, and as a way of making offerings of their own, each destination provides food and drink for the procession. After flinging about their charges, the shrines are set down for a time while participants recover and enjoy themselves. The shrines are then often taken up by representatives of the store, company, or school so that they too can make an energetic offering. On Kitadaito, three shrines are used. One carried by elementary students, one by junior high students, and the last by adults.
The procession is led by the village mayor and vice mayor and the shinto priest, and followed by a wagon with taiko drummers. As night falls, a group of lanterns is added as the shrines make their way back to the Daito-gu shrine at the top of the mountain. At the torii gates the shrine is met by the local sumo club which turns against the shrine, making it even more difficult. The shrine carriers must battle all the way to the top of the hill to return the shrines. The process can take hours as piles of people bar the way and others are flung off. Though it may seem violent at times, the idea is to make the final ascent the best offering they can.
When the shrines finally make it to the top, everyone joins together as one community to celebrate. The mikoshi are placed before the Daito-gu shrine for the night, and the villagers return to an open park area nearby to enjoy refreshments, food, and entertainment in the form of a light show and fireworks.
Though the first day is full of cultural significance and unique local tradition, the festival does not end there. Keep an eye out for a post on the second day coming soon! Don’t forget to checkout the scene in my novel Samurai Awakening that was inspired by Kitadaito’s Festival as well.
