2013 School Trip – Day 1

IMG_7123One significant modern rite-of-passage for young people in Japan are school trips.  Generally, there is a school trip for elementary, junior high, and high school levels.  For Junior High students, the school trip occurs in the second year and is three to four days in another prefecture.  For students in many schools in Okinawa, the school trip destination of choice is Kyushu.

This year, I was able to go on the school  trip as the photographer for two of my junior highs.  I even live tweeted the trip.  This year Kumejima‘s Nakazato, Kumeshima, and Nishi Junior Highs went on a four-day trip through several of Kyushu’s prefectures.

Travel

IMG_6723As you might suspect, traveling from a small island in Okinawa to one of Japan’s four major islands with over a hundred second years is a logistical nightmare.  I doubt its something that could happen in America, yet it happens all around Japan every year.  Accompanying each class is a homeroom teacher, administrator, and nurse (and me this year).

We met at the airport early where students had plenty of time to check in baggage, ensure nothing was forgotten, and then listen to speeches and farewells from family and staff.  Part of the trip is to give many of the students opportunities to speak and hold positions of responsibility, so several students also gave speeches.  Before too long, bags were checked and we were through security.

IMG_6779We flew to Okinawa, where our tour guide met us.  Part of the reason the trips are even possible is that they are planned far in advance with the help of professional guides who can schedule things with enough of a safety buffer to make all connections, plus troubleshoot any problems that arise.

After Okinawa, we flew to Fukuoka City in Fukuoka Prefecture.  There we grabbed our bags and loaded onto tour buses where we met our bus guide.  Unlike the tour guide, who worked to organize and assist us on the trip, the bus guide actually led us throughout the four days, providing interesting information on points as we rode.  Our first destination was right in Fukuoka.

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Daizaifu Tenmangu

One of the most famous shrines in Japan is Dazaifu Tenmangu.  It is especially important for students as it is dedicated to the studious.  Students pray for good grades and buy charms to help them in their studies and tests.  When I went with my students from Kitadaito a few years ago, the second years brought wooden plaques (ema) that the third years had made.  Those ema had wishes and hopes for their upcoming entrance exams, so the second years acted as their proxies in delivering the wishes to the kami.

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After passing a street full of small shops we arrived on the shrine grounds where the bus guide pointed out some of the history of the shrine.  She led us towards the main gates.  The path crossed over two bridges and past several smaller shrines, statues, and sacred trees.

At the main gate, students washed their hands and mouth at a spring to purify themselves before entering the shrine.  There were long-handled ladles which one could use in the right hand to pour water over the left, and then tip up to let water wash the right hand.

After entering, students prayed at the shrine.  First they tossed 5 yen coins (the number 5 is lucky) clapped to call the attention of the kami, bowed, prayed, clapped, and left.

IMG_7265Afterward we headed behind the shrine to a restaurant where bento lunches were awaiting us along with grilled mochi. Students ate in groups and then were given free time to shop at the shrine stalls for charms and gifts before exploring the rest of the shrine and the shops along the way back to the buses   Though they were told not to buy food since dinner would be provided later, but a  few snuck snacks.

After wandering around for a bit I made my way back to the awesomely designed starbucks and had a macha tea latte.

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On to the Hotel

IMG_7472After the shrine, we jumped back into the bus for a long bus ride down to Saga prefecture and our hotel.  Along the way we stopped at a rest stop to give everyone a break and take a few pictures.  Before long we ended up at Takeo Century Hotel where the students were welcomed by the large hotel’s staff.  After a few speeches, students went for their rooms before dinner.

Dinner was an extravagant affair with local flavors presented in many small dishes for each person.  The two schools I was traveling with ate in a dining room set aside just for us.

After dinner, students were fitted for their ski wear for the next day and then held meetings where they talked about their experiences, filled in guide books, and went over the next day’s activities.

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The school trips really are an amazing experience, and I feel lucky that I’ve had the chance to go with three groups of students.  Each time has been different, though the major places we’ve visited have been roughly the same.  The real experiences I’ve had on school trips in Japan are featured in the upcoming novel Revenge of the Akuma Clan the sequel to Samurai Awakening.

Hoko Garden – Himeji City

34. Guesthouse and StonesThe Koko-en or Koko Garden is located just west of Himeji Castle in Himeji City.  If you’re walking from the main train station, it is to the left of the castle grounds on the other side of the moat.  According to the visitor’s pamphlet, the garden was completed in 1992 and is situated where the samurai beholden to the local domain once lived.

The day I visited, the weather was overcast, but I found the expansive garden a great place to wander.  Throughout the garden grounds there are actually 9 distinct garden areas all built with Edo-era techniques. While tours are available, I wandered on my own.  The diverse gardens enable you to find your own path or follow set courses.  Before the Entrance to the grounds, I found many flowering trees, and cuttings of sakura and plum were displayed throughout.

32. Guesthouse and Bridge

I skipped past the kassui-ken restaurant and moved through the roofed corridor that gave me the first glimpse of the largest garden.  Named ‘The Garden of the Lord’s Residence,’ it had a huge pond with carp, waterfall and stone bridge.  The corridor passed into the Choonsai guest house in which were displayed miniaturized sakura trees.

42. Green tea and sweet snackPast a garden with square beds of various plants and flowers was the entrance to the tea ceremony garden and house.  The garden was meticulously maintained, and I stopped for green tea and a snack (an extra 500 yen).  Unfortunately, when I went they did not actually conduct a tea ceremony, but simply served the tea which was prepared in some other area.  I believe they will conduct it with a large enough group.

65. Last PathAfter leaving the tea house, I wandered down the walled path bisecting the garden grounds.  To the north is the main garden, while six other gardens lie to the south. Some were completely walled off from the others, while some were divided by rush stalks tied to poles for a less imposing divide.  Most of these gardens have water running through them.

Gardens to the south include

  1. Flatly landcaped garden
  2. The garden of summer trees
  3. The garden of pine trees
  4. The garden of flowers
  5. The garden with a hill and pond
  6. The garden of bamboo

Overall I found the gardens almost as rewarding as Himeji Castle.  If you enjoy Japanese gardens it is definitely worth the walk.  If you have young children it might not be as engrossing.  I went in early March and found many flowers and cool weather.  I’m sure the gardens will present new sights throughout the seasons.

The cost is 300en for adults and 150en for children with hours of 9-5 (9-6 in May through August).  There is an additional fee for the optional tea ceremony or restaurant.

Weekend Trip to Kansai- Kyoto

PeachSince moving to Japan, I’ve lived on small islands in Okinawa Prefecture.  Unlike those on the mainland, it can be hard to travel when you factor in the time and cost of having to take a boat or plane before you get to a major airport, and at least two planes to get to a major rail station.  Still, after a motivating visit from ZoomingJapan and a time sale on Peach Airlines (less than 7,000 yen round trip from Naha to Kansai), I decided to make a weekend trip up to the Kansai region to visit Kyoto and Himeji.

IMG_8018Although I’ve been to Kansai before, I chose the region because I love the history and culture of Kyoto, the tickets were cheap, and because Himeji is the sister city of Phoenix, where I was born.  My novel Samurai Awakening is also set outside of Himeji City for the same reason.  With the way flights worked out, I had to fly into Naha on Thursday night to catch an early morning flight from Naha to Kansai International Airport (KIX) via Peach.  I was a bit nervous about using the discount airline, but since I didn’t check a bag, things went smoothly enough.  I got a seat in the first row so I had plenty of leg room as well.   The flight seemed rather long for the short distance we traveled.

In Kansai, I jumped on the airport express to Shin-Osaka station, and then jumped on another train to Kyoto.  I got in town right around 1:30 with the plan to do some photography and wander around the city.  It promptly started raining.

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I bought an umbrella from a convenience store after running around with my camera tucked into my jacket.  I walked east past the art museum and sanjusangendo temple then turned north for my favorite place in Kyoto – Kiyomizu Dera.  If you check out that link, you’ll find pictures from my previous trip a good 3 years ago.  Though it started raining pretty well, and I was carrying my only bag, I walked the whole way.  I was surprised at all the tourists despite the rain.  Unfortunately, in addition to the rain, the temple was undergoing some reconstruction, still I managed to take a few decent pictures, and I enjoyed the feeling of timelessness that the surrounding forests and wood buildings seem to create, despite the crowds of umbrella toting tourists (me included of course).

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IMG_8086Outside the temple grounds are streets filled with stores and shops catering to the tourists.  At one was an older lady baking senbei (a kind of cracker) that were flavored with cinnamon and in a unique curved shape rather than flat and round.  I bough some while escaping the rain for my coworkers and was treated to tea and taste-tests of their other products as well.

After the temple, I continued my trek north, turning west to visit the Gion district.  This was an area I had missed on my last trip, having had to go run and try to find a JA bank in the middle of a big city (JA is the agricultural bank of Japan) while my friends shopped.  This time, the rain kept me from getting to see much.  It would definitely be a great place to stroll at leisure, but perhaps not with a 20kg bag.  At that point it really started pouring, so I turned south to check into my hostel near the Kyoto Station.  My pants were soaked by the time I made it back.

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IMG_1449After dropping a few things off, I went back out and jumped on the subway north to the old Kyoto Imperial Palace in the hopes to checkout another place I had missed on my last trip.  By then it was dark (and still raining).  SUPER CREEPY.  Seriously, that is how really good horror movies start.  Walk into a huge park with bad lighting and hedges cutting you off from the main street.  I left disappointed and headed back south to the Nishikikoji Food Market (yet a third place I had missed).  It was mostly closed.

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By the time I found the street normally filled with food shops and stalls they were all closed.  I wandered the area for a bit.  There were plenty of side streets with other types of stores open, but by then I was starving and looking for somewhere to eat.  There were okonomiyaki shops and a beef place, but in the end… I ate at Subway.  It was so good.

IMG_8139With the rain settling down a little I returned to the hostel for a drink with random travelers at the pup next to the hostel. It was, unfortunately not a perfect day, but well worth it.  Since I did most of my trip via foot the most expensive part of my Kyoto trip was the shinkansen from KIX to Kyoto, but I think that came to about 4,000 yen.

The next morning, I woke up early to continue my trip.  I jumped on a few Shinkansen trains to Himeji City in Hyogo Prefecture to visit Himeji Castle and Hoko Park (I’ll share more on the park soon).  That too was well worth the extra expense of the express trains as it made it about a two-hour trip to Himeji City.  After touring around I returned via Shinkansen to the airport area to stay at a local hotel since I had to catch my 7am flight back to Naha on Sunday.  That was the only bad thing I found about using Peach.  The morning flight meant I lost all of Saturday.  Still a great trip, and highly recommended.

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Big Leagues in Small Towns

KumejimaStadiumBaseball is huge in Japan.  As I write this, the teacher’s room TV is set to the World Baseball Classic where Japan is up against Puerto Rico.  Will they win?  I have no idea, but there will definitely be plenty of fans watching to find out (turns out they lost the WBC for the first time ever).  Unlike in the states where baseball goes for a single season, and is quickly replaced, sports in Japan tend to be played all year-long (that’s not to say professional games will go all year).

Students who chose baseball as their sport will play for the entire year, working hard to perfect one sport rather than rotate through many throughout the year.  It’s a big choice to pick a sport in elementary as you’re likely to stick with the same sport through high school.  One thing that Japan and American baseball has in common though, are Spring Training Camps, and they have a huge impact on the small towns that host them.

Spring Training on Kumejima

IMG_7646Every year, Kume Island hosts they Rakuten Golden Eagles from Sendai for their spring training.  Many professional teams throughout Japan travel down to the warmer Okinawan islands between January and March to practice and learn.  The influx of players, coaches, and support staff provide a huge boost to local businesses while the need for stadiums, etc. provide jobs and new athletic facilities for the islanders to use when the pros go home.

Since there’s only so much you can learn without doing, the games and open practices also draw more tourists during the slower colder winter months.  Having the chance to see and occasionally interact with professional athletes is a huge positive for local students, who are encouraged by real examples of people who have made a career of doing what they love.  Having the spring training here has definitely heightened the interest in baseball among nearly all the schools in Kumejima.  Kumejima’s boy’s baseball team routinely ranks in the top four at the all Japan inter-small-island competition near Tokyo.  And took home first two years ago.

Impact on Local Business

It is easy to tell when Spring Training season is coming.  Though there are flags, and other memorabilia at various places throughout the island, including a huge display at the local airport, at the end of January plenty more begin to show up.  There are large Japanese banners along many roads, JAL airline staff wear jerseys, signs and displays pop up along roads, and there is plenty of swag for sale.

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Every restaurant, bar, and club makes sure they have some kind of Rakuten Eagle swag displayed because it welcomes both players and fans.  Many establishments  display plaques with the signatures of the players who have eaten there.  It’s both a kind of advertisement (the cynical view) and pride in the community, for while they’re on Kume, they become part of the culture of the island.

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Have you seen something similar where you live?  Share your experience in the comments!

Himeji Castle

IMG_8576Himeji Castle in Hyogo Prefecture is hailed as the most fabulous of Japan’s many castles. It is definitely the largest. I had the opportunity to visit Himeji for a half-day at the start of March in 2013. Himeji Castle is a UNESCO World Hertiage site.

Restoration

Over the past several years, the main keep of Himeji Castle has been covered by a giant scaffolding that is essentially a building that encircles the high roof. The internal structure has been reinforced to prevent earthquake damage, while the plaster and roofing tiles have been replaced or reworked for water and fire proofing.

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The last major restoration of the castle was completed in 1964.  This new reconstruction is similar to the first. When I visited the restoration work was nearly complete. I had the opportunity to travel to the top of the scaffolding and view the roof from the outside, a view that will disappear in 2014 as the scaffolding is disassembled and the main keep re-opened.  Despite the construction work, I found the grounds beautiful and interesting.  Though the inner keep is not accessible, much of the rest of the grounds were, including the West Bailey.  It was a great way to spend a few hours strolling through the castle grounds and trying to snap a few photos.

IMG_8236Throughout the grounds there are multilingual plaques describing many aspects of the history and culture of the castle including its reconstruction and maintenance.  Many crests of past lords who reigned at the castle, many worked into the roofing tiles.  In the Egret’s Eye View, I was even able to observe a live demonstration of the tiling work.  I’ve always found Japanese style tile roofs to be interesting, so it was great to see how they and the walls were actually put together.

Himeji Castle is located in Hyo prefecture at 68 hon-machi, Himeji, Hyogo.  Hours of operation are 9 am to 4 pm (September through April) and 9 am to 5 pm (May to August).  Closed December 29 and 30.  The Egrets Eye closes a bit earlier.

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