Kume Island’s Lost Village

IMG_5632Last week, after filming an upcoming video post, I went exploring through Kume Island‘s lost village.  I didn’t stay for very long because of the danger of poisonous snakes during this time of the year, but I did have my camera.  Hidden under the trees of the island’s north shore is an abandoned village.  Today, only the walls and a few stone buildings remain of what was once a vibrant village.

IMG_5577The only visitors are the occasional explorers and locals who return to pray for the ancestors who used to live there.  This village is located near sea-level, and is surrounded by tall cliffs.  The village was difficult to get to before the modern roads that now lead to the farms, tropical pools, and Epoch Kuruma Shrimp farm that are located between the ocean and the cliffs.  Many years ago, the villagers abandoned the village and moved to the top of the cliffs so that they would be free from the dangers of tsunami as well as the difficulties of traversing the steep cliffs.

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One  modern building remains in the old village, a place for people to pray for ancestors long gone.  The rest of the area is overgrown with trees and plants, yet there is a unique sense of history as the paths echo into the depths of time.  As I walked, I couldn’t help but think of the people who used to live there, what kind of life they used to lead, and what the village looked like so long ago.

I intend to return for a more in-depth look and will do more research on the lost village.  In the meantime, I hope you enjoy this first look.

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Himeji Castle

IMG_8576Himeji Castle in Hyogo Prefecture is hailed as the most fabulous of Japan’s many castles. It is definitely the largest. I had the opportunity to visit Himeji for a half-day at the start of March in 2013. Himeji Castle is a UNESCO World Hertiage site.

Restoration

Over the past several years, the main keep of Himeji Castle has been covered by a giant scaffolding that is essentially a building that encircles the high roof. The internal structure has been reinforced to prevent earthquake damage, while the plaster and roofing tiles have been replaced or reworked for water and fire proofing.

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The last major restoration of the castle was completed in 1964.  This new reconstruction is similar to the first. When I visited the restoration work was nearly complete. I had the opportunity to travel to the top of the scaffolding and view the roof from the outside, a view that will disappear in 2014 as the scaffolding is disassembled and the main keep re-opened.  Despite the construction work, I found the grounds beautiful and interesting.  Though the inner keep is not accessible, much of the rest of the grounds were, including the West Bailey.  It was a great way to spend a few hours strolling through the castle grounds and trying to snap a few photos.

IMG_8236Throughout the grounds there are multilingual plaques describing many aspects of the history and culture of the castle including its reconstruction and maintenance.  Many crests of past lords who reigned at the castle, many worked into the roofing tiles.  In the Egret’s Eye View, I was even able to observe a live demonstration of the tiling work.  I’ve always found Japanese style tile roofs to be interesting, so it was great to see how they and the walls were actually put together.

Himeji Castle is located in Hyo prefecture at 68 hon-machi, Himeji, Hyogo.  Hours of operation are 9 am to 4 pm (September through April) and 9 am to 5 pm (May to August).  Closed December 29 and 30.  The Egrets Eye closes a bit earlier.

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Osaka Castle Part 2

Back in June, I covered some of the grounds and parks surrounding Osaka Castle.  Today, I have pictures from inside the grounds and keep.  Osaka Castle is full of history, but can become quite crowded as well.  When I went it was in the midst of Golden Week, and the crowds meant a long line to enter the keep and almost no chance of seeing any of the displays.  Although the peak of the building offers great views of Osaka, the interior of the castle is completely modern, and thus not great if you’re interested in the design and architectural aspects of Japanese Castles.

The exterior of the castle and its gardens, however, are quite nice and offer many areas to explore and learn.  There are many helpful signs around in Japanese and English that provide more insight in to the history and construction of the buildings and walls.

2012 Nishime Eisa

I’ve talked about Eisa before, but one of the great things about this Okinawan take on dance and drumming is that there are so many ways to do it.  Almost everything is up for grabs when it comes to unique community identity in Eisa performances.  This past weekend, I attended the annual Nishime sumo competition and Eisa on Kumejima.  Nishime is one of nearly 35 aza or neighborhoods on the island.

As at the Gima Okinawan Sumo competition, the purpose of the events were trifold: the traditional offering of personal effort during the traditional harvest, a way to raise money for the community, and an entertaining social event that binds the community closer together.

The Event started at 3:00 with Elementary sumo competitions, working up to the adult competitions.  I participated this year, and won my first match 2-0, but lost the second one 0-2 to the champion who won the whole thing.  I have that kind of luck when it comes to pulling numbers for the tournament ladder.

Directly after awards were handed out, local community members put on the Nishime Eisa performance.  Most Eisa performances are set for stages or parades and often have their performers arranged in a block formation.  At this unique celebration, the performers entered in one long line and then circled the sumo ring.  To accompany the drummers there were five sanshin (sanshin are the Okinawan version of the Japanese shamisen, a cross between lute and guitar that is usually covered with snake-skin) players who sang and played Okinawan tunes which are a usual feature of Eisa.

It is unknown when Eisa began on Kumejima, however, it has been a staple of island life since at least the Meiji Era, though it was temporarily halted during World War II.  The Eisa performance today lasts about fifty minutes with 12 songs.

Nishime Songs*

  • Medetai Bushi
  • Chunjun Nagari
  • Kudaka
  • Totangani
  • Suri Agari
  • Watta Shima
  • Yokatu Kaijo Meguri
  • Minato Bushi
  • Hanjo Bushi
  • Akino Odori
  • Goeku Bushi
  • Numuku- SuiSui

More on Nishime Eisa

There is more than just the circular Eisa that makes Nishime unique.  Half of the performers wear the traditional Eisa garb of Chinese influenced dress with headwear formed from a long stretch of fabric.  Unlike many Eisa costumes of bright colors, the Nishime drummers wear mostly black with white trim.  The drummers use mainly small drums  with a pair of large drums leading and following.  The Eisa moves are complex, but overall require a great deal of stamina.

Perhaps the most unique aspect of Nishime is the other half.  While one half of the performers are drummers, the other half are paired couples in bright traditional Okinawan clothing.  These performers do not have drums but instead dance to the music and drums along the sumo circle.  These tend to be the older or married couples, while the drummers are the younger, though not all are single.  The men tend to use closed fists in their dance, while the women have more graceful open palms.

Finally, accompanying the Eisa performers are Okinawan clowns in the guise of the elderly.  The arrive with offerings of awamori which they provide to the audience.  The clowns dance, fan the Eisa performers and interact with the audience.  They help encourage everyone to participate and provide more of an offering to the celebration.

*Song and history information provided by the Kumejima Cultural Center and Museum

Shopping in Japan

Shopping may not be instantly recognizable as an aspect of traditional Japan, but the art of  selling has long been part of Japan’s culture.  Looking back into Japan’s history, we can see the mark of consumerism in the merchant class of the hierarchical days of samurai rule.  When Japanese society was divided into the various classes, its sure to be noted the merchants were not accorded much honor, though they did have a group to their own. The samurai’s fall came in part because many merchants eventually gained more wealth and actual status than their legal betters.

Some of the first department stores developed out of the bustle of Japan’s busy cities.  The city of Osaka grew as an important trading stop in rice and other items.  It and other trade centers became hot spots of mercantilism.

Shopping Today

Japan’s economy is largely service based.  The strong yen over the last few years has helped to decrease the importance of Japan’s manufacturing sector even more than the since the 1980′s bubble economy collapse.  Japan provides more goods and services than material.  This service economy ties up with shopping in two main ways.  First, the actual service you receive at a Japanese store will likely far out reach anything you’ll find in the west, and second, shopping is an even bigger part of Japanese social life than in the states.

Japanese Service

Ok, so you walk into an American department store.  Your greeter is a set of electronic pads making sure you don’t steal anything.  You go and search around trying to find something.  If your lucky you might catch hold of an attendant who might stop chewing their gum long enough to tell you they don’t have what you want.

Then you jump on a plane and go to a Japanese store.  You’ll likely end up being greeted by any store employee you pass, even if they’re just stocking.  If you want an item, an employee might lead you on a dash through the store, but if it’s there they’ll find it for you.  If not, they’ll apologize and help you get it anyway.

It may not seem like much, but the differences are noticeable most when you return home.  Be it at the airport, checkout stand, or in a taxi, the level of service will likely be higher in Japan.  Why?  Because that’s partly what Japan’s economy is built on, partly because a sense of separation is important in what has long been a hierarchical and very crowded country.

Let’s Shopping in Japan

At this point some of you want to drag me to an American mall and have me explain how shopping in Japan is a bigger deal.  In America you might hangout at a mall or go to find a pair of shoes once a week or so. In Japan, people of all ages go shopping every day.  Japan, again, has a long history, but for much of that it lacked refrigeration technology.  Mothers and Grandmothers traveled to local markets each day for the ingredients they would cook.  The lack of space in Japanese housing encourages variations on this tradition since there is often not a lot of kitchen space for big refrigerators.

Today most Japanese department stores have a grocery on one floor, and then clothes, electronics, etc on other floors.  They are daily stops for homemakers, hangouts for students on break, meccas for tourists, and a significant part of the lifeblood of the Japanese economy.  Whole sections of stores are often devoted to pre-packaged gifts for tourists to take back.  Omiyage is a huge part of Japanese culture that ties in with Japanese shopping habits.

Service is an interesting thing though, because it feeds on itself.  As customers come do demand a certain level of service, there is always a pressure on clerks and salespeople to provide a higher level than their competitors.  Consumer expectations has led to interesting developments in everything from store design to fruit packaging.

Modern Department Store

Not every shopping experience will be the same.  Throughout Japan there are a number of large stores and brands, and even the same store brands in the same city will have different layouts.  Here’s what I’ve found around Okinawa’s department stores:

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