Zao Machi, Miyagi

IMG_7293One of the great things about Japan is the diversity in local culture. Japan’s long and isolated history due to geography and limited transportation technologies has led to one of the most unique and recognizable non-western cultures in the world. Those same historical forces also led to the many differences in language, beliefs, and culture throughout parts of Japan. While modernization has eliminated many of the gaps, there are still plenty of differences to experience and enjoy.

This past week I had the opportunity to travel to Miyagi prefecture for the first time. Like many prefectures in the north of Honshu, Miyagi was hit by the 2011 tsunami with Sendai in particular being hard hit. The differences between small-island Okinawa and the plains and mountains of Miyagi were instantly obvious. From Sendai airport, the ground stretches away in all directions. Mostly farm land, the flat basin is nearly devoid of buildings so that I was astounded by the open spaces I hadn’t really experienced since being in the States.

IMG_6434

In Okinawa, space is at a premium; so many areas are highly urbanized. Where there are fields, they are usually in smaller pockets hidden among urban settings. The few areas of low-lying land are taken up by sugar cane which disrupts the horizon, unlike rice fields which stretch away as far as one can see. From the flat areas, however, the geography shifts again, climbing quickly into valleys and forested mountains. Everywhere was rustic and green, with the road snaking past hidden villages that reminded me a lot of Sedona, Arizona.

IMG_7274We stayed in Zao Town, Miyagi for two days for the Daido-ge Festival. I’ll cover the festival in-depth next week, but I was travelling with a group of Eisa performers who go each year to perform during the two-day festival. It was a great experience.

There are two Zao Towns in Tohoku. One is in Yamagata Prefecture. This town was small and is known for skiing and kokeshi. The former is a small wooden doll with thin, rounded body and larger head. IMG_7880The dolls are said to have originated from Zao Town’s local onsen and then spread to other parts of Japan. Since the weather is far cooler there in the mountains than far in the south, the onsen is a welcome way to warm up and relax. There is a popular foot bath outside the onsen where travelers can stop and bathe tired feet in a stream of hot water.

IMG_7318

IMG_7073Miyagi Prefecture is known for its beef tongue (gyu ton) dishes, but I found another local specialty right across the street from the onsen. Konyaku is a root based starch without much taste or a lot of nutrients, but it is a cheap way to fill the belly. It’s usually served in other dishes as a kind of filler. In Zao Town, specifically the To-gatta area, they served konyaku balls that had marinated in a sauce of dashi, roots and other ingredients to give it a golden color and hearty taste. These tabakon were served on skewers and were popular throughout the festival (they were 100 yen for a stick of 3).

IMG_7264There were other unique differences as well, especially among architecture, yet there were a lot of similarities as well. Everyone I met was warm and welcoming despite the fact I was only there to photograph and was not a performer. I was welcomed to all the post-festival events and the locals were as warm and curious as any I’ve met in Okinawa. I would have loved to stay longer, see more of the surrounding areas, and explore the famous sights, but it was also very interesting to spend two days on essentially one stretch of street. If you have the chance, take a drive through this area of orchards, you’ll be glad you did.

This slideshow requires JavaScript.

IMG_7882

2013 Kume Island Firefly Festival

IMG_4730Most small communities throughout Japan have several festivals throughout the year to celebrate milestones along the way.  The largest festivals are usually derivatives of the traditional harvest festival, while smaller festivals usually are tied to specific events.  On Kume Island, the start of spring is marked by the arrival of fireflies.

Since Kumejima has its own species of firefly, they have become an important symbol of the island.  The official character is even a Kumejima Firefly.  Aside from Kume Island, fireflies are deeply rooted in Okinawan culture.   Fireflies thrive in wetlands, and throughout the islands, they would mark the start of spring.  If  you’ve ever ridden the Okinawa monorail, you might notice songs played to distract nervous riders whenever the monorail turns.  At the turn before Tsubogawa station, there is a song that echoes the pattern of lights the fireflies make as they fly.

 

Jin Jin Road

IMG_4621On Kume Island there is a road along the kanegusuku area full of shops, stores, and restaurants.  Every year the association of owners shuts down the street to vehicles and host the Kume Island Firefly festival.  The street is lined with paper lanterns, and restaurants set out tables and stalls to sell food.  Children draw with chalk along the road, festival games like darts, fishing, and other games are out and a stage is set up for entertainment.

IMG_4568This year, the event started around 4:00 on April 27.    There were a surprisingly large number of students, far more than I usually see around the other events on the island.  The local school band started off the entertainment with popular show tunes and other music.  Throughout the evening there were also live eisa performances, a signing group from Minamidaito called Borijinaru Musume, chugging competitions (soda for kids, beer for the adults), arm wrestling, and a small band to cap things off.

They also revealed the new official mascot for Kume Island, a cute Kume Island Firefly with a tsumugi patterned front.

IMG_4662

While this festival doesn’t have the long history and ritual appeal of older festivals, it is a fun way to relax and enjoy a carnival atmosphere while providing local businesses a much-needed boost from local and tourist spending.

This slideshow requires JavaScript.

Samurai Awakening wins the Crystal Kite Award

crystalkite

When I moved to Japan, nearly every day was full of new experiences, wonderful people, and rich culture I didn’t want to keep to myself.  In addition to this blog, I began writing my first novel, initially titled True Samurai.  Like many projects, it evolved and grew with the input and help of friends, family and eventually Tuttle Publishing.  After nearly three years, I was finally able to hold Samurai Awakening in my hands last October.

Samurai Awakening_Jacket.inddThe book industry is a vast space full of differing interests and fields.  Plunging into it was frankly scary, with many paths leading towards unscrupulous companies and individuals waiting to profit off the unwary writer.  Luckily, I was introduced to the Society of Children’s Book Writers and Illustrators.  This worldwide organization provides support, knowledge, and encouragement to the content creators that bring new stories to young people around the world.  The members of SCBWI, especially in Arizona and Japan have been incredibly supportive in welcoming me to their ranks, and sharing their wisdom.

The friendliness and open willingness to share is an amazing and important help in today’s changing marketplace.  I’m humbled that such amazing, talented people chose Samurai Awakening as their member’s choice award.  Thank you to to SCBWI Japan and all the members who voted for my work.  I only hope I can be the kind of positive influence everyone at SCBWI has been to me.

I’m thrilled to be one of the recipients of this amazing award.  Be sure to check out the award winners from other regions on the SCBWI.org website.

Also from Benjamin Martin

Revenge of the Akuma Clan Cover
The Tanner's Daughter Cover

Where to find Samurai Awakening

You can find Samurai Awakening from your favorite local independent store, or order from one of the links below. Thank you for your support!

Finally, don’t forget to check out all the Crystal Kite winners.  For a list or excerpts head over to Gallycat.

Ryukyu Hawk Owl

IMG_4100

I don’t always bring my camera with me, but since today was an ensoku before the start of Golden Week, I brought my Canon to school.  When I got there, a crowd of students were staring out the window at a small bird sitting on the ground outside.  As young boys do, one of them prodded it with a broom handle.  A teacher told him off and I ran back to the car for my bag.

IMG_4120

The little Ryukyu Hawk Owl was sitting in the middle of a group of kids sleeping!  I was able to get right up close and grab a few shots before it flew off, but then not far, and I caught it again in a nearby tree.

IMG_4118

I’m not a bird expert, but thanks to The Internet Bird Collection I’m pretty sure I identified it correctly. The scientific name is Ninox [japonica] totogo.  These photos were taken on Kumejima.

IMG_4133

2013 School Trip – Day 1

IMG_7123One significant modern rite-of-passage for young people in Japan are school trips.  Generally, there is a school trip for elementary, junior high, and high school levels.  For Junior High students, the school trip occurs in the second year and is three to four days in another prefecture.  For students in many schools in Okinawa, the school trip destination of choice is Kyushu.

This year, I was able to go on the school  trip as the photographer for two of my junior highs.  I even live tweeted the trip.  This year Kumejima‘s Nakazato, Kumeshima, and Nishi Junior Highs went on a four-day trip through several of Kyushu’s prefectures.

Travel

IMG_6723As you might suspect, traveling from a small island in Okinawa to one of Japan’s four major islands with over a hundred second years is a logistical nightmare.  I doubt its something that could happen in America, yet it happens all around Japan every year.  Accompanying each class is a homeroom teacher, administrator, and nurse (and me this year).

We met at the airport early where students had plenty of time to check in baggage, ensure nothing was forgotten, and then listen to speeches and farewells from family and staff.  Part of the trip is to give many of the students opportunities to speak and hold positions of responsibility, so several students also gave speeches.  Before too long, bags were checked and we were through security.

IMG_6779We flew to Okinawa, where our tour guide met us.  Part of the reason the trips are even possible is that they are planned far in advance with the help of professional guides who can schedule things with enough of a safety buffer to make all connections, plus troubleshoot any problems that arise.

After Okinawa, we flew to Fukuoka City in Fukuoka Prefecture.  There we grabbed our bags and loaded onto tour buses where we met our bus guide.  Unlike the tour guide, who worked to organize and assist us on the trip, the bus guide actually led us throughout the four days, providing interesting information on points as we rode.  Our first destination was right in Fukuoka.

IMG_6907

Daizaifu Tenmangu

One of the most famous shrines in Japan is Dazaifu Tenmangu.  It is especially important for students as it is dedicated to the studious.  Students pray for good grades and buy charms to help them in their studies and tests.  When I went with my students from Kitadaito a few years ago, the second years brought wooden plaques (ema) that the third years had made.  Those ema had wishes and hopes for their upcoming entrance exams, so the second years acted as their proxies in delivering the wishes to the kami.

This slideshow requires JavaScript.

After passing a street full of small shops we arrived on the shrine grounds where the bus guide pointed out some of the history of the shrine.  She led us towards the main gates.  The path crossed over two bridges and past several smaller shrines, statues, and sacred trees.

At the main gate, students washed their hands and mouth at a spring to purify themselves before entering the shrine.  There were long-handled ladles which one could use in the right hand to pour water over the left, and then tip up to let water wash the right hand.

After entering, students prayed at the shrine.  First they tossed 5 yen coins (the number 5 is lucky) clapped to call the attention of the kami, bowed, prayed, clapped, and left.

IMG_7265Afterward we headed behind the shrine to a restaurant where bento lunches were awaiting us along with grilled mochi. Students ate in groups and then were given free time to shop at the shrine stalls for charms and gifts before exploring the rest of the shrine and the shops along the way back to the buses   Though they were told not to buy food since dinner would be provided later, but a  few snuck snacks.

After wandering around for a bit I made my way back to the awesomely designed starbucks and had a macha tea latte.

IMG_6985

On to the Hotel

IMG_7472After the shrine, we jumped back into the bus for a long bus ride down to Saga prefecture and our hotel.  Along the way we stopped at a rest stop to give everyone a break and take a few pictures.  Before long we ended up at Takeo Century Hotel where the students were welcomed by the large hotel’s staff.  After a few speeches, students went for their rooms before dinner.

Dinner was an extravagant affair with local flavors presented in many small dishes for each person.  The two schools I was traveling with ate in a dining room set aside just for us.

After dinner, students were fitted for their ski wear for the next day and then held meetings where they talked about their experiences, filled in guide books, and went over the next day’s activities.

This slideshow requires JavaScript.

***

The school trips really are an amazing experience, and I feel lucky that I’ve had the chance to go with three groups of students.  Each time has been different, though the major places we’ve visited have been roughly the same.  The real experiences I’ve had on school trips in Japan are featured in the upcoming novel Revenge of the Akuma Clan the sequel to Samurai Awakening.